84-85
F and G Gardiner with R and P Almer,
An unimportant summit usually climbed in
combination with the
Gr Grtinhorn.
PD From the Konkordia hut climb the Grtineggfirn
to about 3000m.
Follow steep and crevassed snow slopes N wards
(the slopes can get
very soft in the
afternoon and great care should be taken in descent)
to a snow couloir descending from a depression on the ridge NE of
Pt 3475m. Climb the couloir then follow more snow slopes fairly
steeply to the
fore-summit (3787m). An easy rock ridge leads to the
main summit. 4-5hr
PD T von Hahn with F Amatter and F Kaufmann,
A fine climb ofno great difficulty on good rock.
From the Konkordia
or
Griinhornificke by Route 89 or 90. Now climb unpleasant slopes
(scree) to get onto and climb the S
ridge of Griinharnli (3494.5m).
From this summit a spiky rock ridge leads to
a reddish granite step
which is turned on
the E side (slight descent). Gendarmes and short
rock or snow
sections on the ridge lead to the summit. About 5hr
from the pass
Gross Grunhorn 4043.5m
E von Fellenberg
with P Egger, P Michel and P Inabnit,
7 Aug
1865
A splendid mountain well
worthy of its 4000er status. It has good
rock and a distinct difference
in character between its W and E
sides, the former,
being principally snow, provides the ordinary
route whilst the
latter is mostly rock on which there are 2 excellent
climbs.
PD First ascent party
The ridge itself is quite short, starting at
the col between this mountain
and the Griinegghorn. It is mostly climbed from theKonkordia
by
traversing the Griinegghorn, but since the opening of the Manchjoch hut
an ascent to the col from the Ewigschneefiild is
gaining popularity (this is
the normal route on
skis).
From the Konkordia
hut follow Route 92 to the summit of the
Grtinegghorn. Descend easily to the snowy col. Now climb the
ridge, on the crest
at first then on the W flank, to the summit. 5-6hr
from the hut
From the Manchjoch
hut (or the Berglihut) descend the
Ewigschneeflild
until directly W ofthe summit and climb the
crevassed slopes as
directly as possible to the col at the foot of the
SW ridge. On the
last steep section it may be necessary to move R
onto the NE slopes
of the Grtinegghorn to reach the col. Then as for
the other approach.
4-5hr
D J Farrer
and H Reade,
A first rate climb
which when combined with the SW ridge makes a fine
traverse of the
peak. There is no great technical difficulty but it is quite
committing (III with
bits oflV, exposed). It is most commonly climbed
these days from theManchjoch hut but can also be climbed from
Konkordia(longer but more convenient for descent)
From the Monchjoch
hut (or Berglihut) descend the
Ewigschneeffild to
about 3300m then slant up the slopes S of
Pt 3415m to cross the SW ridge of the Lk Grtinhorn. Continue up
snow slopes to the
lowest point in the ridge between the £1and
Gr Griinhorn. 3hr
From Konkordia get
onto the Ewigschneeflild and climb the
R side in a snowy hollow
until level with Pt 3175 m. Now head NE
up crevassed snow slopes to the same point on the ridge, or a
slightly higher one
further S. 4hr
Follow the ridge fairly easily to where it steepens. The first
wall is climbed on
the L then the ridge is followed to a steepening.
Now cross a couloir
on the R and climb a short wall to gain a rib on
the W side of the
ridge. Climb this back to the ridge and then keep
to the crest, except
for one detour on the W side, to the summit.
3-4hr, about 8hr
in all
84-85