86-87
96 EAST PILLAR
D+ C Blum and U Frei, 27 July 1967: Winter, P Etter,
U Gantenbain,
R Kitser and A Scherrer,
A magnificent climb on sound rock and in very
fine surroundings. Mostly
III with several bits oflVand
one oft . Snow and ice gear is needed.
The pillar, not very pronounced in the lower
part, separates the SE flank
of the mountain from the NE face.
From the
of the pillar. Here
a narrow ice couloir, which turns to rock at the
bottom and can be seen from the hut, comes
down to the glacier.
Cross the bergschrund
and climb slabs on the L (S) of the couloir,
then the crest of the rib on its L side to
where it faces into slabs (III,
IV). Make a difficult traverse R to a
shoulder then descend slabs to a
ledge on the edge of the icy couloir. Cross the couloir and
climb
rocks on the other side to the top of the
first steep section of the face
(IV)
The next step is climbed on its NE side. Some
detached
blocks lead to a 10m wall on the R of a couloir emanating from a tiny
notch in the pillar. Climb the wall (V-,
crux) and continue straight
up in an exposed position to the notch (IV+).
Above the notch
climb on the R side and then traverse
pleasantly round the crest into
a couloir. Climb
this to its upper part where it steepens. Now climb
on the L side to get onto the SE face a few
minutes from the
summit. 8-11hr from the hut
D F von Bethmann-Hollweg
with O and O Supersaxo,
A classic route with some pleasant rock
climbing (II and III). There is
some stone fall danger.
From the
snow coombe on the SE side of the mountain (starting from
Konkordia, cross
the Granhornificke to reach the same coombe) as
far as a steep snow couloir
about 100m NW of Pt 3585mon the SE
ridge. Climb the couloir and then the tongue of snow (steep) to
reach the rocks as high as possible. Now
climb directly up the face
(no
particular line) to finish a little R of the summit. 5-6hr from the
Klein Grfinhorn 3738rn
G. Lammer and A Lorria,
Lies on the continuation of the N ridge of
the Gr Grtinhorn and
probably best climbed in combination with
that route. Of necessity
it is included in the traverse from the Gr Fiescherhorn to the
Gr Grtinhorn.
PD T von Hahn with F Amatter and F Kaufmann,
From the Monchioch,
Bergli or Konkordia huts
follow Route 95 to
the low point on the N ridge of the Gr Grfinhorn. Easy climbing
leads to the summit. Gendarmes are passed on
the W side. 4-5hr
PD First ascent party
From the Monchjoch
or Berglihuts follow Route 95 to where it
crosses the ridge. From Konkordia
follow Route 95, but instead of
slanting up to the N ridge get onto the SW
ridge at about 3500m.
Follow the ridge on snow and then excellent
rock to the summit.
3.5 -4.5 hr
PD H Kintze
with her guide,
Probably the best way ofclimbing
the N ridge ofthe GrGriinhorn
from
the Manchfoch hut
and a means ofclimbing that route from the
From the Monchjoch
or Bergli huts descend the Ewigschneeflild
until W of Pt 3415m, then climb easy snow
slopes (crevasses) to the
col at 3739m (Kl Grtinhornhicke). 2.5 -3hr
From the
below the col at Pt 3739m. Climb directly to the col
(D). 3hr
From the col climb
the crest of the ridge or its W side (easier)
to the steep summit rocks. Climb on the W
side to the summit.
1 .5 hr, about 5hr in all
86-87