78-79
Wannenzwillinge
3481m and 3432m
These are twin peaks on the ridge running S
from the KI
Wannenhorn, only
the higher one being given a spot height on the
map. The E ridges
provide some good rock climbing, on granite, in
a remote high
mountain setting. There is a convenient bivouac by
Flesch (Pt 2028.6m) on the W side of the Fiescher
glacier. It is also
possible to bivouac
at about 2550m in the Sulzbach basin reached
from Fieschertal, alternatively start at the Burg hut.
TD- C Blum and H Grossen,
A good free climb on sound
granite. About 600 m of climbing.
From the bivouac at Flesch
climb the crest of the R hand moraine
and then the small
glacier below the Kl Wannenhorn
to the couloir
between the two
ridges. Cross the bergschrund (difficult) and about
30m higher leave
the couloir and cross grassy ledges to the ridge at a
shoulder. Climb the
first step on the N side by a couloir/chimney
system and slabs
(one pitch of IV) back to the ridge. Continue up
the ridge (sometimes
snow) and climb a gendarme (IV) to attain the
foot of a big step.
Climb the first 70m of the step by starting
up a diedre, then
climbing a cracked
slab just on the N side of the rounded crest.
Next make a rising traverse across a 20m steep
slab (V) then climb
35m R wards in a
crack (V+, several pitons). More slabs (easier)
lead to a diagonal
chimney/crack which is climbed (V). At the top
traverse to a
window. Get back onto the crest by a short crack on the
L. Climb an overlap with aid, then straight
up (V+) to where a 25m
crack (IV+) leads to
an easing of the angle. Four more pitches lead
to the top (III,
IV). 7hr from the foot of the ridge
Descend by the N ridge and the Wannenhorn glacier on the
W side to the Aletsch
glacier or, to return to the bivouac, descend
the couloir between the ridges (stone fall) and abseil over the
bergschrund.
D+ P Flihndrick
and P Nigg,
Somewhat easier than the
previous route. Most dificulties are about lV
with the odd bit of lV+ and V-- and long, easier sections.
From the bivouac at Flesch
climb up the R hand moraine by its
crest and then the
small glacier towards the ridge close to Pt 2681m.
Get onto the terrace above the rounded base
by a series of cracks
and diddres on the L at the weakest point. Cross the grassy
terrace
R wards (c l00m) to a diedre about 30m L of the base of the ridge.
Climb the diedre
for 3 pitches then continue easily up the
ridge (possibly
snow) to a slabby, 40mhigh shoulder. Climb this by
flakes then move up
easy ground to the next step which is climbed
by a widening
chimney (back and foot). Broken rock leads to a
gendarme whose top
is the shape of a hare's ear. A crack and short
traverse lead to the
gap 20mbelow the top of the gendarme.
Traverse L and then climb up to belay in the
'ear'. Follow the edge
for a few meters,
descend 4m on the N side to a horizontal ledge
then move R to the
gap behind the gendarme.
The sometimes snowy ridge continues to the
next spiral-like
tower. Climb this, at
first on the L over rocks interspersed with
grass, then slant up
L for 40m on flakes (the corrugated wall). From
a short earthy
terrace descend 15m to a small1edge and climb a
diidre
to a belay a bit higher than the earthy terrace. Next climb
slabs under a grey
overhang and traverse L into a couloir. Climb the
rib on its L before
following the ridge to the next tower (possibly on
snow).
Climb first on the L of the edge for 80m to a
platform. Under
a jagged edge follow
cracks and slabs to a stance on the W side of the
tower. Abseil 15m to a horizontal section of ridge. The next tower
has a deep chimney,
60m high, in its SE flank. Descend L to its foot
and climb it,
passing outside several jammed blocks at 50m. Next
climb a shallow dibdre R wards followed by a small roof to get back
to the crest. Keep
on the crest to a short wall on the L of a big slab.
Climb the wall and then the crest to the top
of this tower before
abseiling down a
vertical wall to the next gap.
Avoid another gendarme on the N side before
the next step.
Climb this on loose rock on the N side for
two pitches (delicate) and
then traverse 15 m into a grey diedre which leads R to a niche. Climb
the detached slab to
the L to a dibdre with an embedded block (the
Blade). Climb the
block and reach a fist-sized crack on the L and
climb to the crest.
50mof loose rock/snow lead to the summit rocks.
Climb slabs on the R to a wide ledge which
merges into the rock
wall on the L. Climb
the wall, where there is a lot of quartz, to a
V-shaped gap (piton protection). The last
pitch is up the crest on
superb rock. 6-9hr from the foot of the ridge.
Descend the W side for a few meters, abseil
20m down a
diadre
then climb down easily on the R to snow and down to the
Aletsch glacier. Or, as for Route 82, descend the couloir between
the ridges.
78-79