Klein Wannenhorn
3706.7m
23 Aug 1866
This is the
as the Walliser Fiescherhorner, well
seen from the Eggishorn and
Bellwald. The whole
group is infrequently climbed in summer.
This is not because of any poor quality of
climbing but more likely
the fact that there are so many peaks close
by which surpass the
4000m contour.
TD G Harr,
M Niedermann, E Niifand H Zurfluh,
This is a750m high granite pillar terminating
on the S ridge close to the
summit. A fine climb especially in its upper
part. Pitons are in place. The
climb can be abandoned at about3500m by a 20m
abseil onto the tiny
glacier to the S. A steep snow/ice slope
leads to a small col between
Pt 3481m and the Kl
Wannenhorn.
From the bivouac referred to in Route 83
climb the moraine and
either the E or W bank (according to the
state of crevasses) of the
small glacier. Reach the start of the climb
at a snow/scree couloir
)depending on
the season) which starts at an enormous tower
detached from the SE wall. Climb the couloir or cracks 15m S of it
(3m of IV+) and
reach the tongue of the hanging glacier. Ascend
diagonally R and get back onto rock 60m above
the start.
Climb up R and traverse into a rocky couloir which cuts
through the lower wall. Climb it for 200m
(II, III, 20m of IV) to
easier and less steep ground. Climb the couloir which comes from
another big tower. 80m below the tower leave
the couloir on the R
and traverse for 1 pitch to the R across a slabby step (III). Move up
L into a couloir,
which narrows to chimney proportions in places
before it eventually merges with the slopes
near the crest. Climb it
for 2 pitches to a ledge (bits of V+).
Another 2 pitches lead to the
crest (V, some V+, AO). Follow the crest to
its junction with the S
ridge (III, IV). Climb this ridge to the
summit (IV). 9hr from the
foot of the ridge
Descend the ridge NW towards the Gr Wannenhorn (F) and
from the saddle descend the S branch of the Wannenhorn glacier to
the Aletsch glacier.
P and C Montandon,
The mountain has an airy, rocky, double
summit. These are
separated by an impressive gap which proves
quite difficult to cross.
AD O Hug and A Simmen,
57 A
pleasant outing from the
From the hut cross the glacier almost S and pass
S of the rock
buttress below Pt 3291.3m. Climb the easy
snow slopes to the col at
3532m. From the col more easy snow slopes lead to the ridge which
is followed more or less on the crest all the
way (bits of III, some
difficulties can be avoided on the L). 4hr
87 TRAVERSE
OF THE WALLISER FIESCHERHORNER
AD The ridge, starting at the
Wyssnollen and ending at the Kl
Wannenhorn,
57 E
provides a long but easy high level traverse over mixed terrain and with
little company. If the Fiescher
Gabelhorn is missed out the route is a little
easier. It can be started from the Konhordia or
can be left at
various points.
From either hut reach the Grunhornhicke
by Route 90 or 91 and
climb scree and
snow slopes to the summit of the Wyssnollen
(3595m) in 1hr.
Descend to the col at Pt 3532m and climb the NE
ridge of the Fiescher
Gabelhorn as for Route 86 (2hr). Descend the
SE ridge, avoiding a step at half-height on
the E flank, to the col
before the Schonbilhlhorn. This same point can be reached from the
Wyssnollen by
turning the foot of the E ridge of the Fiescher
Gabelhorn and
climbing the snow slope beyond it to the col.
From the co1climb the snow ridge to the W
summit of the
Schonbiiblhorn and
then cross the near horizontal crest, via 4
gendarmes, to the E summit (3845m,
interesting). 192hr from the
Fiescher Gabelhorn. Descend easily to the next col
and pass 2
towers on the W side to another, slightly
higher col at the start of
the NW ridge of the Gr
Wannenhorn. Climb the first step easily,
partly on the crest and partly on snow on the
L. The second step is
quite airy but with good holds on the crest
(II-III). The final step is
steep and exposed at the top with a few
difficult but well protected
moves. A few gendarmes are then traversed to
the summit
(3905.9m). 1.5
hr
Cross snow to the S summit and descend SE on
snow slopes as
far as a gendarme on the SE ridge. Turn this
on the E side and climb
onto the ridge via a slab. Go down the ridge
passing another
gendarme on the W side then climb the spiky
ridge to a snow dome.
Reach the col
beyond by easy rocks and snow (1-1 .5 hr). The N
ridge of the K1Wannenhorn can be climbed
easily in 20min.
Descend the S branch of the Wannenhorn glacier to the
Aletsch glacier and
Miirjelessee (2.5 hr) from where a path leads
easily to the Kilhboden cable station. Allow 12-15hr in all
80-81