78-79
First recorded crossing NE-SW, J Hornby, T Philpott and
F Morshead with C Almer, C Lauener and J
Anderegg,
A high pass connecting the Walliser
Fiescherfirn and the Finsteraar
glacier. Useful as a means of crossing
between the Schreckhorn and
linking the latter hut with the
F From the
glacier, the L bank of the Walliser
Fiescherfirn until below a rock
buttress beneath Pt 3406m. Just beyond this
climb NE up snow
slopes to the col (usually quite crevassed)
taking care to keep to the
L in the middle part of the climb to avoid
possible icefall from the
R.2-2.5 hr
AD This is a straightfonoard
but fairly steep snow/ice slope. There is
avalanche danger after fresh snow.
From the Finsteraarjoch (Route 64 to 65)
traverse horizontally S to
the foot of the snow/ice couloir leading to
the col. Coming from the
the middle of the couloir, cross the
bergschrund and at about 3500m
climb onto rocks on the R side which leads
out onto the face of the
Agassizhorn. Climb the rocks until about
100mbelow the ridge
then traverse L across snow couloir and climb
the rocks on its S side
to just above the col. If snow conditions are
favourable it is possible
to climb the couloir all the way. 2hr
In descent take the second rocky rib to the N
of the col, the
first one is short and merges with the
couloir after a short distance.
W. Coolidge with U Almer and C Inabnit,
A nice peak but rather overshadowed by its
mighty neighbour.
F Firstascentparty
From the
Agassizjoch. Before reaching the co1climb the
S flank onto the ridge
which leads easily to the summit. 3.5 hr
TD F Egger and B Lauterberg,
About 650m of climbing in a remote situation,
the first half being
Quite easy.
From the foot of the ridge, situated between
the E foot of the
Agassizjoch and the Finsteraarjoch, ascend
easily to about mid-
height, sometimes on one flank and sometimes
the other. Climb
over a gendarme and by-pass another on the L
to reach a high step.
Avoid this by climbing on the NW flank to a
level slab. Get back
onto the ridge above the step (exposed) and
climb it, passing a slim
tower on the L. From the gap below the summit
rocks, climb direct
for 20m (exposed) then slant up L on broken
rock.
7-8hr from the
start
A rocky peak at the S end of the Walliser
Fiescherhorner which is
gaining some popularity with the opening of
hut accommodation at
Miiriela.
82 STRAHLGRAT
PD M. Bruce and A Sloman with
J Elsig,
This is the long ridge running due S from Pt
3186.9m and terminating at
the Strahlhorn summit. There are several tops
on the ridge, all higher
than the Strahlhorn itself, and once on the
ridge it is actually descended
to the S trahlhorn. There are difficulties of
II to III on sound rock.
From the Gletscherstuba hut (or Kilhboden)
follow a track to
Miirjelewang then head N over meadows and scree slopes to reach
the small glacier at the S end of the
Walliser Fiescherhorner. Climb
the glacier NW to reach a snow saddle on the
ridge. Turn SW and
follow the crest of the ridge with no
particular difficulties over all
the summits of the Strahlgrat. It is best to
stay on the crest and to
avoid the flanks. 4hr
To descend, follow the
ridge SSW and then later head SE over
grassy slopes to Miirjela.
78-79