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70-71

Finsteraarjoch 3293m

H George with C Almer, 28 July 1862

A high pass between the Obers Ischmeer and the Finsteraar glacier.

It offers an alternative route between Grindelwald and the Grimsel

Pass to the crossing of the Strahlegg Pass. It also provides, with the

Agassizjoch, a means of connecting the Schreckhorn and

Finsteraarhorn huts. It compares in grandeur with the

Lauteraarsattel.

64 FROM THE NORTH-WEST

PD From the Schreckhorn hut follow Route 49 to the site of the old

Strahlegg hut. From the rocks to the SSE ofhere get onto snow

slopes leading towards Pt 2922m and follow them passing just below

this point. According to conditions pass below or above the next

rock island and then, by steep slopes, reach more level ground to

the W of Pt 3454m(Alte Strahlegg). Turn S and cross the glacier

below Pt 3468.7m to the pass. 3 .5 hr

65 FROM THE SOUTH-EAST

PD/D The difficulty on this side depends on the state ofthe crevasses.

From the Aar bivouac head S across the Finsteraar glacier to the

foot of the NE ridge of the Studerhorn. Climb up under its N face,

avoiding the first s6rac zone to the S, before turning NW and

reaching the upper glacier to the L of the second serac zone. Pass

below the Agassizjoch and reach the pass with no further difficulty.

3-4hr

Studerhorn 3638m

R Lindt and G Studer with J and K Blatter and P Sulzer,

5 Aug 1864

An unremarkable mountain from the S but possessing an attractive

N face which is frequently climbed. From the summit there are fine

views of the Finsteraarhorn, Lauteraarhorn and Schreckhorn.

66 TRAVERSE VIA ALTMANN

F A pleasant and undemanding outing from the Oberaarioch hut. See also

53 photo 52

From the hut descend to the col and walk down the Studer glacier

until level with the foot of the rocks on the R. Turn N and climb

easily up to the col between the Oberaarhorn and Altmann.

Traverse the E ridge of the latter to the summit, avoiding the first

step on the S flank. Easy snow slopes lead to a col. Continue, still on

snow, to a second col (Unders Studerjoch) before climbing to the

summit of the Studerhorn up easy snow slopes with the odd steeper

step. 3hr

From the summit walk down the NW ridge and descend onto

the Studer glacier a little way before reaching the Obers Studerjoch.

Descend the easy angled glacier to join Route 71 and return to the

hut. 2hr, about 5hr in all

67 SOUTH RIDGE

PD+ C and M Blum, 9 Sept 1980

53 A short climb direct to the summit from the Studer glacier. More sporting

than the traverse.

From the Oberaarjoch hut follow the Studer glacier to the foot of

the ridge. Start at a little snowy bay just on the R then keep to the

ridge (III) which is a bit loose in places. 3hr

68 NORTH FACE

TD- P Bonnant and Miss L Boulaz, 1 Aug 1940. Winter: H Lussy,

51 W Manz and W Stoll, 2/3 Jan 1970

The face is 600m high and reaches 58. at its steepest. Often climbed.

From the Aar bivouac follow Route 65 to the foot of the face. Start

up the face on the R of the lower s6rac band and work back L

towards the middle of the face. The exact line of ascent will then

depend on the state of the seracs in the upper part of the face. It is

usual to pass these on the R and avoid the summit cornice on the R

also. 5-8hr

69 NORTH-EAST RIDGE

PD+ A Moore and H Walker with M and J Anderegg, 24 June 1872

51 Not often climbed but the easiest way of reaching the Oberaarioch hut

from the Aar bivouac,

From the Aar bivouac cross the Finsteraar glacier and climb up into

the glacier bay round the E foot of the ridge. Traverse R onto the

ridge where it levels out above the steep lower part. Continue on the

ridge to the summit. 4-5hr

70-71

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