68-69
60 NORTH
FACE DIRECT (Shreckhorn 4078 m.)
TD+ H and A Schelbert,
1980
50 The
route climbs onto the snom/ice terrace at the foot of
the face up the ice
wall. The first
ascent party encountered 800 ice although this is very
variable from year
to year as is its height (c l00m).
From the Gleckstein
or Lauteraar huts reach the foot of the face as
for Route 61. Climb
direct to the terrace and continue more
straight forwardly
up the slopes beyond to the summit. 5-10hr from
the foot of the face
61 NORTH FACE CLASSIC ROUTE (Shreckhorn 4078 m.)
TD+ I and J Taguchiwith
S Brawand and C Kaufmann,
50 The face is 600m high and averages 500. It is one of the
great mixed
routes in the Bernese Oberland, the lower part being on snow lice and the
upper third on
difficult, broken rock. Because ofits easterly aspect
it
catches the sun
early, and so requires a much harder frost than most N
face routes to make
it safe. The climb has a feeling of isolation about it.
Reach the foot of the face from the Gleckstein or Lauteraar huts by
Route 59 towards the Nilssijoch
(from the latter hut it may not be
necessary to climb
up to the Lauteraarsattel before turning L to
reach the face). Get
onto the snow/ice terrace above the lower ice
wall by climbing the
NE rib, and then take a line slanting gently R
towards the summit.
According to conditions, either climb direct to
the summit or exit
onto the interconnecting ridge between the SE
fore-summit and the
summit. 10-12 hr from either hut
62 NORTH-EASTRIB
(Shreckhorn 4078 m.)
D+ W and P Pendlebury with P Baumann and P Kaufmann,
50 11 July
1873
A fine but neglected route. A splendid achievement
by the first ascent
party considering
the date it was done.
From the Gleckstein
or Lauteraar huts follow Route 61 to the
Snow lice terrace but instead of setting foot
on the terrace continue
up the ridge to the SE
fore-summit. 10-12hr from either hut
Klein Schreckhorn 3494m
A good view point
but otherwise a modest summit.
63 NASSI GLACIER AND SOUTH-EAST RIDGE
PD Miss Brevoort
and W Coolidge with C and UAlmer,
but
descended earlier
From the Schreckhorn
hut descend the path towards Grindelwald
for a few minutes,
then climb grass and scree slopes, with traces of
path, under the W
flank ofthe Schwarzegg
ridge to reach the Niissi
glacier. Slant L up
the glacier and get onto a lower tier further N
which slopes up
towards the summit of the Kl Schreckhorn
(both
parts of the glacier
can be quite crevassed). Avoid some s6racs on
the L and above
these get into and climb a short couloir (rock or
snow) leading to the
foot of the SE ridge. The rock ridge leads easily
to the summit. 4-4
.5 hr
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