62-63
R Meyer with
A Abblihl and K Huber,
A high pass
providing the easiest high level crossing between
Grindelwald and the
from the
side should be avoided in
the afternoon.
F From the Schreckhorn hut follow the track to the site of the old
Strahlegg hut across
moraine and snow patches (1hr). A good track
leads steeply
up into the coombe to the E and is followed to an
easy
angled rock
ridge. Climb it to a snowy shoulder at about 3200m.
Head up now
to the foot of a rock ridge descending SW from
Pt 3428m and,
keeping to the R (S) of this ridge, reach the col by
less steep
slopes. 2 hr, 3 hr in all.
PD From the
to the top of the central
moraine. Follow this for about 500m before
descending
onto the clean glacier on the L. Keep more or less in the
centre of the
glacier, and where it begins to steepen turn NW to
reach the bergschrund at the foot of the snow couloir
leading to the
col. Cross it
where practicable (often on the R) then climb the
couloir, crossing some
loose rock / scree on the R near the top. 3hr
Fahner, J Leuthold and J Madutz,
Along with its
twin, the Schreckhorn, this forms a most impressive
sight from
just about every aspect. It is one of the more difficult
4000 meters to climb on account of its remoteness, the approach to
its
base from any
direction being a lengthy undertaking. The building
of the
frequently ascended from
here. The mountain has three ridges on
which much of
the rock is bad except for the top 100m or
thereabouts.
Consequently good rock is found on the NW ridge
(Lauteraargrat) linking
it with the Schreckhorn.
Red
line: S-face Couloir and SE Ridge
Red
dots: Rocky west (right) edge of S- face Couloir
Yellow
line:
Yellow
dots: Traverse from Lauteraarhorn to Schreckhorn and descend from Schreckhorn
via the normal route
51 SOUTH FACE
COULOIR AND SOUTH-EAST RIDGE
AD- First ascent party
This is the
ordinary route on the mountain and the means of a fairly quich
ascent if
conditions are favorable, but there is little to recommend it
apart from
the last 100m or so of climbing on the SE ridge. Since the
route is S
facing the snow quickly softens and this can make descent a
problem.
There is also avalanche danger after fresh snow (it was the
scene of a
major accident in the mid I 980s). Wet snow-slides down the
face are
frequent and the runnels made by these should be avoided (the
snow is at
all soft. In such circumstances it is better to avoid the face and
keep to the shattered
rock crest on its W side either in ascent or descent.
From the
of the central moraine.
Walk up this for about 500m then descend to
the L onto
bare ice. Continue up the glacier, over a crevassed zone,
to the foot
of a triangular snow slope below the couloir (1 .5 hr).
Climb the
slope and the rock band above it to another snow slope,
then another
rock band above that to reach the foot of a broad
snowfield. Climb
this trending L towards a narrow couloir. Climb
this
(steeper) and the snow slopes above, now keeping to the L, to
finish on the
ridge on the L just below a large gendarme on the SE
ridge. Climb
snow on the L of the gendarme to get onto the SE
ridge at a
gap beside the gendarme (it is also possible to gain the SE
ridge on the
R of the gendarme and traverse it to reach the same
point). 2.5
-3hr
Superb rock scrambling leads to the summit in about 30min.
About 4.5 -5
hr in all
In descent it is possible to follow the ridge on the W side of
the face to
the foot of the narrow couloir mentioned in the
ascent.
Below this
point the snow is easier angled and less dangerous when
soft than on
the higher slopes.
TD- A Rubi
and Miss M O'Brien, ca 1930
The ridge
rises in 3 distinct sections from the
these is fairly
straightforward and fairly level. The next is rather loose
and is
steeper but still quite easy. The last section of about 300m is the
raison d'itre' of the climb. Here the rock is good and steep
although the
difficulties
are not excessive. Not often climbed.
From the Schreckhorn hut or
the
and reach the start of the
ridge. Follow it without any real difficulty,
mainly on its
W flank until the ridge loses itself in the W flank of the
first big
step. Now climb gradually R wards for 3 pitches up steep
but fairly
loose ground to regain the ridge. Now keep to the ridge as
far as the
foot of the steep third section where the difficult climbing
begins.
A few meters
L of the ridge climb a chimney/crack system for
1 pitch (IV, V). Get back onto
the ridge and continue to a shoulder
below the
final steep section and directly below the summit.
Traverse L
for 10m, then up to reach a crack on the L. Climb this
and join
another crack on the R which leads back to the ridge.
Climb the
last step direct to the summit (V). Shr from the Strahlegg
Pass.
Lauteraarhorn
62-63