58-59
J Berger and M Girard, July or Aug 1842
A magnificent glacier pass between the
Niissihorn and the
Barglistock, linking the Lauteraar glacier to
the SE with the Oberer
Grindelwald glacier to the NW. The approach
route from the
Gleckstein hut has been made safer and easier
to follow by the
construction of a new path. There is a good
bivouac site at the pass.
46 FROM THE NORTH-WEST
PD M Bannholzer and J
Jaun,
From the Gleckstein hut descend a little to
the path heading
towards Beesiblirgli and take the R fork (red
and white way-
marking). The path descends gradually to
reach the edge of a big
gully. Go down into the gully (cable and man made steps). This is
the lowest point and there follows an ascent
of moraine, scree and
grass to a band of rock which has a fixed
cable to aid its crossing. At
this point the old route is joined at about
1hr from the hut. Continue
climbing steadily before finally reaching a
track descending
gradually R to a terrace close to the glacier
just below Pt 2662m. 2hr
Climb the the easy angled
but very crevassed glacier to the flat
upper part below the col. Climb up to the col
passing between or to
the L of 2 rocky areas (steep). 2 hr., 4-5
hr. in all.
F First ascent
party
From the Lauteraar hut descend (fixed cables
etc) SW to the
Unteraar glacier and climb this WNW keeping
close to the central
moraine. Continue up the Lauteraar glacier
and the steep and
crevassed upper slopes to the bergschrund.
This can be very wide
and the crossing point varies from year to
year. If it can't be crossed
directly below the col it may be possible
further R (E). Snow or ice
lead to the col. 4-5hr
58-59