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42 DESCENT TO THE GLECKSTEIN HUT

46 First ascent party

AD From the summit traverse the towers of the SE ridge to reach the

lowest point in the ridge (3370m) (II-III with one bit of IV and

some abseiling). From the gap descend the couloir leading to the

Gutz glacier and reverse Route 36 to the hut. 2.5 -3hr

Wellhorn 3191.6m

E Von Fellenberg with C Almer and P Egger, 31 July 1866

This mountain along with the Klein Wellhorn forms an impressive

rock wall overlooking the Rosenlaui glacier. It is frequently climbed

from the Dossen hut by the E ridge (PD+)

43 TRAVERSE VIA THE NORTH-EAST RIDGE

AD+ G Bell with U and H Fuhrer, 12 July 1902

45 A magnificent climb with a remote feel to it. Normally climbed in

conjunction with theKl Wellhorn whose S summit is turned on

the S face.

From the N summit of the Kl Wellhorn climb about 100m down the

S face to a grassy terrace. The last 10m is III+ (or abseil). From the

terrace climb diagonally across the S face of the S summit towards

the gap to the S, this being reached by a rocky step.

Follow the interconnecting ridge to the first step of the NE

ridge where a grey slabby pitch is climbed on the L. The next pitch

follows a curving crack and leads to a gendarmed section of ridge.

Climb these direct with one abseil (or IV-). Keep on over slabs to

the next step which is climbed by a slab on the E side (or more

sportingly to the R of the edge). Continue over a level section of the

ridge, a snow or scree slope and a few humps to a gap below the

third step.

Climb short vertical steps on good holds, at first by a crack,

then a chimney (piton, III+), to the summit slopes of rock and

snow (possible cornice). 4-5hr

Descend the E ridge until above the lower of 2 terraces on the

SE face. Climb down to the terrace via limestone slabs and traverse

onto the glacier. On the glacier head S, then in a wide are to the L

reach the col below Pt 3032, N of Dossen. Keep on the E side of the

ridge to the Dossen hut. About 2.5 hr

Klein Wellhorn North Summit 2685.5m

C Freeman and H Bowen with H and S Zurflith, 7 Aug 1893

The peak lies to the NE of the Wellhorn and has a fine SE wall

overlooking the Rosenlaui glacier. The rock on this face is good,

and it supports some fine modern routes as well as one worthwhile

one in the '50s style. Just N and below the Liisisattelare some fine

looking pillars of rock that can be clearly seen from the valley road.

These may well be worth a visit on an off day.

44 NORTH FLANK AND NORTH-EAST RIDGE

PD+ First ascent party

45 The easiest route on the mountain. Used for descent and in combination

with Route 43 for a traverse of the two peaks. Despite many traces of

track and cairns the route is not easy to follow in poor visibility,

especially in descent.

From Rosenlaui or Schwarzwaldalp take a path to Scheenenbielalp

(1673m). Keep to a track on the R side of the stream, going WSW to

the W end of a rock outcrop at the top of a grassy slope. By traces of

track climb L across a steep, slaty slope and then continue in the

same general direction past an avalanche couloir (path is exposed in

places but is more obvious) to a saddle on the N ridge (the

Lilsisattel). The last part of this is almost horizontal. 1hr

Grassy slopes lead in about 20min to a rock step which is

avoided on the L. Continue on the NE flank towards the first steep

rise in the terrain (45min). Keep to the R of this and, when above it,

move up L, crossing a distinct gully, before climbing a system of

gullies and couloirs to an obvious horizontal break leading L. From

the extreme L edge of this climb straight up to a small gap. On the S

side of the gap climb up to the NE ridge via ribs and couloirs (some

III-) and then follow the ridge to some grassy steps leading across

the SE flank (traces of track). Climb for about 150m parallel to the

ridge before regaining it a little way below the summit. 2-3hr, 4-5hr

in all.

45 SOUTH-EAST FACE

TD- E Reiss and D Reist, 15 July 1950

45 A fine climb in impressive surroundings. Although the difficulties are

never severe the line is not particularly easy to follow and should not be

undertaken lightly. About 600m of climbing.

From Rosenlaui take the route to the Dossen hut (Route H11) as far

as the bridge crossing the Rosenlaui gorge. Keep on a good path on

the W side to reach the foot of the lateral moraine N of the

Rosenlaui glacier. Climb to the top of the moraine and traverse L

for about 200m (debris-covered rock) to a rock niche. 1 V2hr

Move up L for 50m to the start of a steep couloir cutting

through the lower wall of the face from R to L (III). Climb the

couloir for 2 pitches to a stony niche (IV, IV+) and then, via a

crack, reach a grassy terrace on the L (III, IV). Climb another 20m

and then traverse L for 1 pitch to a grass ledge (exposed, III, IV).

Now climb straight up at first, then R wards to the start of some

slabs that lead L wards to the foot of a pillar. Climb 1 pitch up the R

edge of the slabs (IV) to a belay on turf ledges.

Traverse L along the bottom edge of the pillar and make a

20mabseil froma flake into a grassy niche. Next climb L wards to a

large terrace at the foot of a deep gorge. Climb the gorge easily for

several pitches until it steepens and narrows. As soon as possible

get onto the crest of the pillar on the R by a system of vague cracks

(III) then follow the ridge directly for several more pitches to a

large platform (III, IV).

On mixed rock and grass climb first L then R (III) to a cave

(route book). 2 more pitches trending R (III) lead to a system of

cracks. Climb straight up to some large blocks (IV then III) then up

an obvious diedre which leads R to a grass ramp below the summit

rocks. Climb these direct to the top. 4-7hr from the foot of the face

See the rock climbing section of the guide-book for other routes

on this face.

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