54-55
40
NORTH FACE AND NORTH-EAST
FLANK
TD N Finzi, J Biner
and J Knubel,
47 The
first climb on the face but still a serious undertaking, having all the
characteristics of a N face route. Route
finding is not particularly easy.
From Grosse Scheidegg follow Route 38 to the
large terrace at the
top of the first step and then traverse L to
a scree cone and snow
patch. Move up R, passing a short step, to
the edge of the first
terrace (III). Follow the terrace a long way
R over inclined slabs.
Climb over 2 steps (III) to reach a long,
horizontal gorge. Follow
this easily to its W end and surmount a step
by a chimney on the L
or on the R to reach the second terrace at
about 2700 m.
Follow this terrace back L (E), descending a
little, before
climbing up to a higher terrace below some
impressive yellow pillars
which form the boundary between the N and NE
faces. Keep going
L, crossing a gorge, to the almost vertical NE
ridge (all this is easy).
Climb towards in a stepped chimney (III) then
up a steep wall on
poor holds to a ledge belay (crux of the
climb, IV with 2 bits of
IV+, very exposed). Another pitch in a diedre
(IV)1eads to easier
ground. Follow a ramp of broken rock L to a
ledge leading R into a
large amphitheatre. Move up this and get onto
a shoulder abutting
the NE ridge (some III). Continue by short
steps and couloirs on the
NE face to the summit (III). This last
section may have some snow
or ice cover. About 12 hr
TD+ M Epp and J Talbot,
Aug 1963
47 The
pillar forms the E edge of the N and NE faces of the mountain and
rises in 5 steps to a snowy fore-summit. The
rock on the steep steps is
generally good but loose rock is to be found
on the sloping interconnecting
terrain. In places the limestone forms
characteristic, tile-like slabs
inclined to the N. These can be very difficult when wet or verglassed,
and the climb should not be attempted in
these conditions. The terrain
through which the route passes gives the
climb a certain grandeur, and a
feeling of commitment to the alpinist,
although it is possible to escape
from the route below the fourth step. See
also photo 47
From Grosse Scheidegg descend E to a
snowfield below the ravine
of the Hengstera torrent. Climb easily up the
L side of the ravine
and then cross R towards a massive area of
slabs. Now climb about
40 m and then, by delicate slabs and small
steps (V), move up
towards to the foot of an 8mwall. Climb this
by the edge above the
ravine (V). Move up L easily to the start of
a line of weakness in the
yellowish rock. Climb this line for 20m then
traverse R 6m to a
belay on a slab. Next climb up L (V, piton)
to reach easier ground.
Climb straight up to a chimney and climb this
(IV) and some short
rock steps (III) to the crest of the pillar.
The second step is started just R of the
crest. Climb a crack up
a stepped wall (60m, V) to a big dibdre in the
tower. Fine climbing
up the diedre for 25m (V) then reach a line
of weakness 20m to the
L. On the L edge of this line of weakness
clirnb straight up (V) to
the top of the step. The next tower, 40 m
high, is avoided on the L
or R to a gap from where a vertical crack
(V+) is climbed to the top
of the step. Water can be obtained here from
the glacier, and an
escape can be made across the Hengsteren
glacier to the
Wellhornsattel.
The imposing fourth step is climbed mainly by
its crest. Start
a few meters L at a niche below the ridge.
Climb a crack for 45m to
an obvious notch in the crest (V). Keep to
the crest for 15m (V+)
and then climb up to a small roof (V-, V+) before moving R
(3 bolts, A1). Follow slabs trending L (V+) then a crack
to get
back onto the crest. Climb to a niche, then
over an overhang on the
crest (V) and finally the L side of the crest
to the top of the step.
The next step is also climbed on the crest
which is reached by
slabs and cracks on the L (IV-V). This is the
fore-summit and the
end of the difficulties. Follow the ridge
(II-III) and the snow/ice
slope to the pinnacled ridge joining the
Wetterhorn to the
Scheideggwetterhorn. 10-13 hr
54-55
