52-53
ED1 P Von Kiineland H Trachel, 4/5 Aug 1970. The upper part of the
ridge had been
climbed in June 1945
The pillar forms the R (W) edge of the N face
and provides about 1000m
Of ff-ee
climbing. Iris considered to be one of the best
rock climbs in
ridge there is some
danger of sierac fall from the Gutz
glacier but there is
shelter to be had in
the diddres and overhangs. Ice axes are essential for
the descent. See
also photo 46.
From Grosse Scheidegg take the ridge abutting the flice and climb
the first rock wall by a couloir to a large terrace (about 150m, III+.)
Traverse 300m R, descending about 50m, to below 2 massive yellow
diddres.
Climb to the foot of the R-hand of these to a ledge (invisible
from below), which
leads in turn to the foot of the pillar where the
climb begins. 2hr
From the end of the ledge go round the spur
(20m, IV) to
belay on the pillar
itself. Climb direct for 10m (VI) then traverse R
for 25m (IV). It is
this pitch which is exposed to sierac fall. Straight
up a superb crack
(35m, V) for another pitch and continue in the
crack (V) to below
an enormous overhang which is climbed free
(VI-). Now climb up to another roof and overcome it
taking a line
leading R wards,
then continue upwards bearing slightly R (35m,
V). A 35m diedre
(V) leads to a crack on the R which finishes as a
chimney (35m). Now
straight up for 10m to a mossy overhang
before traversing 8m
L (V) and then straight up a slab and wall
(VI-) to a belay. On the R easier climbing (25m, II and
III) leads to
an 80m crack. Climb
this with increasing difficulty to an overhang
(V)
which is climbed (V+, delicate) to another crack.
Easier
climbing (20m, III)
leads to a big terrace (bivouac site). 5-7hr
Climb the R side of the yellow/red wall then
a short terrace
and grey slab to a
belay on the edge of the pillar (40m, IV+)
Continue to the L over tile-like rock across a rib, then regain the
crest and climb
straight up it (30m, V+). 50m of easier climbing on
the L of the pillar
leads to a prominent wall 40m high. Climb the R
side of the wall by
a steep slab. Where it becomes vertical make a
delicate step L and
after 6m follow a dibdre to a platform (30m, V+
and VI). 35mof
splendid climbing up walls follows (IV) and then
after a few more meters
(III) reach a wide ledge and a gap in the
ridge . 3-4hr (It
was from this point that the upper part of the ridge
was first climbed by
Pargiltzi's party in 1945, the approach being
made by the NW face.
There are good bivouac sites here).
The next step-in the ridge is about 200m high
and is climbed
on the SW face. From
the gap abseil 8m and climb the first crack to
a small niche (30m,
V). Another crack on the R leads to a diedre
(35m, V+) which is climbed to a cave (35m, V). Pass a narrow
chimney towards a
gorge then climb R wards in a dibdre (40m, V+)
A crack now leads to a belay below an
overhang (V+, delicate)
Traverse R on a slab to pass the overhang
then climb back L to
regain the crest 50m
higher (60m, III and IV) Several pitches of
II-IV on the pillar lead
to a prominent crack at the start of a grey,
tile-like slab.
Climb direct up the slab and then L to the gap (35m,
V-). Above this is a 60m high buttress. Traverse R from the gap to a
vertical diedre which is climbed to the crest (30m, V). Follow the
crest for 10m then
climb on the R by slabs to a ledge below an
overhang (30m, V+).
On the R of the crest pass a yellow overhang
(V+)
and climb a short diedre (IV) to a belay in 30m. This
is the
end of the
difficulties. Continue on the R of the crest for about
100m before the
final 2 pitches (III-IV)1ead to the summit. 6-8hr,
16-21hr in all
ED2
47 Winter:
A Hermann and members of GHM les Aiglons,
21 Dec
1971-2 Jan 1972
This is a most impressive climb. Many pitons
are in place and are used
for aid although much of the route can be
free climbed. It is extremely
long (about 1300m) and is among the most
difficult big Swiss climbs on
limestone. The upper part of the face needs
to be dry otherwise verglas
can be a problem. A good selection of pitons
should be taken as well as
nuts and ice-screws. See also photo
46
From Grosse Scheidegg
follow Route 38 to the first terrace.
Traverse R towards 2 pillars and climb
between them to a belay
)IV-V). Follow a
chimney on the L to the top of the pillar (bolt
belay). Climb the face on the L by a 10m
vertical crack (bridging)
then another crack on the R to a niche and
bolt belay (VI-, Al-A2)
Climb the chimney going up R wards (IV-V)
then from the
first terrace, continue further R to below
the next step. Climb this at
its lowest point going straight up at first
then by a crack going L to a
belay at the top (VI, A1). Keeping to the L
on slabs reach the next
step. Traverse 100m L to a chimney which is
below the most
westerly pillar in the centre of the face.
Climb the chimney in 2
pitches (VI, A1) and the following step to
the foot of the pillar.
Now climb a chimney (1 pitch) to a belay on
the L edge of the
pillar (V+, VI). From the belay keep to the
edge for 10m (V) then
via the chimney reach the next belay. The
last few metres are quite
trying (VI). Continue in the back of the
chimney (2 pitches) to the
top of the pillar (VI, V+). Traverse a long
way R on a ledge (about
200m) to an
overhang (bivouac site). Climb straight up over the
overhang to a belay in a chimney (A3, A2, V+
and VI). Continue
further up the chimney (VI) to the next belay
(bolt). Traverse 10m
R then over ledges to another belay (III,
IV). Now a vertical pitch
finishes with a crack (V+, A1)
Keep to the crest for 1 pitch, vertical at first then up L to easy
ground (IV, III). Climb a further 3 pitches L
wards towards the
large pinnacle 40m L of the final chimney
(II/III with bits of IV).
Descend 10m and traverse horizontally L to
the foot of a chimney.
Climb this on the L edge then in the back to
a belay (VI, A2). Keep
in the chimney to a niche (VI)- again a
trying few metres. The
chimney becomes less steep and wider and
leads to a bifurcation
(IV,
V). Keep in the L branch to the next belay on the NE ridge of
the mountain (V, VI-). Gain the summit in 4-5
pitches more or less
on the ridge all the way (IV, V). About 25hr
52-53