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36
NORTH-WEST RIDGE AND
NORTH-WEST FACE
AD+ Ridge: J Farrer with D Maquignaz and J Koberbacher,
11Aug l897
Face: R and A Voillat with H Antibnit,
The ridge is a shorter and easier climb than
theSWridge route and
although not often climbed, it is quite
worthy ofattention. It can,
however, be quite tricky if wet or
verglassed. The face is quite
straightforward in good snow conditions and
makes a good training
climb. The angle is 450-500. See also photos
45 and 46
From the Gleckstein hut follow Route 35 to
the Gutz glacier. Cross
it NEwards to reach snow slopes on the NW
face leading directly to
the summit, or continue to the W side of the
NW ridge. Climb to
the large gap alongside Pt 3455m (bits of
III) and then follow the
ridge directly, via short diedres (III), to
the snowy upper part and
the summit. 6-7hr for either route
PD M Bannholzer and J
Jaun,
The route is basically a long glacier plod, the only difficulty, apart from
climbing the final ridge, is avoiding
crevasses.
From the Dossen hut follow Route 32 to the
Dossensattel. Descend
a steep snowy couloir on the W side of the
col (possibly ice or scree)
for 100m to the upper basin of the Rosenlaui
glacier. Go SW up the
glacier before curving round to the W to
reach the Wellhornsattel
2.5 hr
Make a gradual descent W to the long glacier slope leading
directly to the Wettersattel. Climb to this (1.5 hr) and then follow
Route 34 to the summit. About 5hr from the
hut.
Scheideggwetterhorn 3361m
G Hasler with P Bernet and C Jossi, 13 May
1901
It cannot be truly considered to be a
separate mountain, (and the
spot height 3361m is not quite the highest
point) being more a
shoulder of the Wetterhorn, nevertheless it
presents a most
imposing spectacle when seen from Grosse
Scheidegg. The N side
of the peak is a massive rock wall cut by
large ledges and running
with melt water. It is this face which
provides interest for
mountaineers. All the climbs on this side are
long and serious
undertakings and have been compared to routes
in the Dolomites
such as the Civetta N wall. On all the routes
pitons are in place but a
selection should be carried.
The climbs described are reached from Grosse
Scheidegg-
reached by Post bus from Grindelwald or
Rosenlaui. There is no
access for private cars.
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