46-47
C Aebi and R Gerwer with P Michel and P
Infibnit,
The peak is frequently climbed from the Gauli hut. It has a massive
AD- From the Gauli hut follow the Chammliegg path to where it first
turns sharp L. Now follow the line of a ravine to its upper end and
get onto the ridge. Mostly easy climbing leads to a rocky plateau on
the ridge. Pass a gendarme on its R and descend 2-3m to reach the
top edge of a snow slope. Cross the snow N
wards and then, back on
the ridge, climb gneiss slabs and scree to a
big gendarme. Pass this
on the L and climb a couloir (20m) onto the E
ridge. Easier
climbing leads to the summit. 4-5hr
AD A Baumgartner and P Koenig,
From the Gauli hut follow Route 26 up the
glacier, passing below
Pt 2795m, until directly S of Pt 3209m. Now
climb the slopes
between a rock buttress on the L and the ridge, descending from
the summit, on the R to gain the col between
the Rtinfenhorn and
Hangendgletscherhorn (c3050m). 3 .5 hr
Climb the ridge to a gap (can be reached
direct from below by
a couloir) and then continue more easily over
or round (S) Pt 3209m
to another gap on its E side. Climb the
following step on its N side
(crux)
then the easy ridge to the summit. 2-2.5 hr, 6hr in all
A Girdlestone and J Matthews, 1867 (they
found a cairn on the top!)
Only worth climbing for the view and exercise.
30 SOUTH FLANK
F First ascent party
From the Gaulihut follow the previous route
to the slope between
the rock buttress and ridge. Once above the
buttress climb the
slopes direct to the summit. 3-4 hr
PD From the Dossen hut follow Route 32 to the
summit of the Dossen.
Descend easily down the S ridge to the
Ranfenjoch, from where
easy snow slopes lead to the summit. 3.5 -4hr
J Hugi,
Another fine viewpoint.
32 NORTH RIDGE
PD First ascent party
From the Dossen hut follow traces of track
SW, on the E side of the
ridge, to the col S of Pt 3032m
(Dossensattel). If the glacier is very
icy it is better to climb the ridge running SW from the hut, climbing
a step at half-height direct (III) or turning
it on the L more easily,
before descending to the col from Pt 3032m.
From the col climb a 5m step a bit to the L
of the ridge-foot
and get into a slabby diedre a few m L. Climb
the diedre and then
keep on the ridge to the summit (one step of
III-). 2-3hr
Rosenhorn 3689.3m and Mittelhorn 3704m
Rosenhorn:
J Wahren, M Bannholzer, J Jaun and three
other guides,
28 Aug 1844.
Mittelhorn: M Speer with K Abplanalp, J Jaun and
J Michel,
These two summits, along with the Wetterhorn,
form the group
known as the Wetterhorner. They are
attractive looking peaks seen
from N or E and well worth the attention of
alpinists.
33 TRAVERSE
AD+
46 The
two peaks are best combined in a traverse which can also include an
ascent of the Wetterhorn. It is a lengthy
undertaking involving varied
rock and snow and is best done in the direction described. It is possible to
start and finish at either the Gleckstein or
Dossen huts. See also photo 45
From the Gleckstein hut follow Route 34 or
from the Dossen hut
follow Route 37, to the Wettersattel (3508m).
About 4hr
From the saddle climb the Wetterhorn in 45min
by Route 34
or ignore this summit and turn S to climb the
Mittelhorn, at first up
a broad and steepening snow slope and then
along the narrow W
ridge. Below the summit take the R fork in
the ridge to the final
steep slope. If this is icy it is better to
climb a diedre lower down to a
shoulder L of the summit. 1hr
Descend the SE ridge easily to a secondary
summit. The
continuation of the ridge is very steep so it
is better to descend the
shoulder S of this summit, turning L to reach
the Mitteljoch
(3502m). 45 min
The traverse can be abandoned at this point, descending to
the Gleckstein hut via Hick, or to the Dossen
hut via the Rosenlaui
glacier to the Wellhornsattel and Route 37.
If continuing, get onto
the W ridge of the Rosenhorn and follow it to
the first step, which is
turned on the W close to the crest. Other
obstacles are climbed
direct or past on the R. 1 .5 hr
Descend the rocky SSE ridge to a slight
depression, cross it
and descend a snow slope to Rosenegg. 45min
To return to the Gleckstein hut descend the
Oberer
Grindelwald glacier SW then WNW to the coombe
below the
Mitteljoch. Cross the coombe passing above Pt
3339m and go
between two rock islands to Hick. Reverse
Route 34 (alternative) to
the hut. 3hr, 11-12hr in all
To return to the Dossen hut reverse Route 26.
2 .5 hr, 11-12hr
in all.
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