<<        >>

 

46-47

 

Hangendgletscherhorn 3291.9m

 

C Aebi and R Gerwer with P Michel and P Infibnit, 15 Aug 1863

The peak is frequently climbed from the Gauli hut. It has a massive

 

28        SOUTH-EAST (CHAMMLI) RIDGE

AD-     From the Gauli hut follow the Chammliegg path to where it first

turns sharp L. Now follow the line of a ravine to its upper end and

get onto the ridge. Mostly easy climbing leads to a rocky plateau on

the ridge. Pass a gendarme on its R and descend 2-3m to reach the

top edge of a snow slope. Cross the snow N wards and then, back on

the ridge, climb gneiss slabs and scree to a big gendarme. Pass this

on the L and climb a couloir (20m) onto the E ridge. Easier

climbing leads to the summit. 4-5hr

 

29        NORTH-WEST RIDGE

AD      A Baumgartner and P Koenig, 19 July 1900

From the Gauli hut follow Route 26 up the glacier, passing below

Pt 2795m, until directly S of Pt 3209m. Now climb the slopes

between a rock buttress on the L and the ridge, descending from

the summit, on the R to gain the col between the Rtinfenhorn and

Hangendgletscherhorn (c3050m). 3 .5 hr

Climb the ridge to a gap (can be reached direct from below by

a couloir) and then continue more easily over or round (S) Pt 3209m

to another gap on its E side. Climb the following step on its N side

(crux) then the easy ridge to the summit. 2-2.5 hr, 6hr in all

 

Ranfenhorn 3259m

 

A Girdlestone and J Matthews, 1867 (they found a cairn on the top!)

Only worth climbing for the view and exercise.

 

30        SOUTH FLANK

F          First ascent party

From the Gaulihut follow the previous route to the slope between

the rock buttress and ridge. Once above the buttress climb the

slopes direct to the summit. 3-4 hr

 

31        NORTH-WEST FLANK

PD       From the Dossen hut follow Route 32 to the summit of the Dossen.

Descend easily down the S ridge to the Ranfenjoch, from where

easy snow slopes lead to the summit. 3.5 -4hr

 

Dossen 3138.2m

 

J Hugi, 13 Aug 1828

Another fine viewpoint.

 

32        NORTH RIDGE

PD       First ascent party

From the Dossen hut follow traces of track SW, on the E side of the

ridge, to the col S of Pt 3032m (Dossensattel). If the glacier is very

icy it is better to climb the ridge running SW from the hut, climbing

a step at half-height direct (III) or turning it on the L more easily,

before descending to the col from Pt 3032m.

From the col climb a 5m step a bit to the L of the ridge-foot

and get into a slabby diedre a few m L. Climb the diedre and then

keep on the ridge to the summit (one step of III-). 2-3hr

Rosenhorn 3689.3m and Mittelhorn 3704m

Rosenhorn: E Desor, Dupasquier, Dollfus and Stengel with

J Wahren, M Bannholzer, J Jaun and three other guides,

28 Aug 1844. Mittelhorn: M Speer with K Abplanalp, J Jaun and

J Michel, 8 July 1845

These two summits, along with the Wetterhorn, form the group

known as the Wetterhorner. They are attractive looking peaks seen

from N or E and well worth the attention of alpinists.

 

33        TRAVERSE

AD+    E Panchard and J Martin, 18 Aug 1901

46        The two peaks are best combined in a traverse which can also include an

ascent of the Wetterhorn. It is a lengthy undertaking involving varied

rock and snow and is best done in the direction described. It is possible to

start and finish at either the Gleckstein or Dossen huts. See also photo 45

From the Gleckstein hut follow Route 34 or from the Dossen hut

follow Route 37, to the Wettersattel (3508m). About 4hr

From the saddle climb the Wetterhorn in 45min by Route 34

or ignore this summit and turn S to climb the Mittelhorn, at first up

a broad and steepening snow slope and then along the narrow W

ridge. Below the summit take the R fork in the ridge to the final

steep slope. If this is icy it is better to climb a diedre lower down to a

shoulder L of the summit. 1hr

Descend the SE ridge easily to a secondary summit. The

continuation of the ridge is very steep so it is better to descend the

shoulder S of this summit, turning L to reach the Mitteljoch

(3502m). 45 min

The traverse can be abandoned at this point, descending to

the Gleckstein hut via Hick, or to the Dossen hut via the Rosenlaui

glacier to the Wellhornsattel and Route 37. If continuing, get onto

the W ridge of the Rosenhorn and follow it to the first step, which is

turned on the W close to the crest. Other obstacles are climbed

direct or past on the R. 1 .5 hr

Descend the rocky SSE ridge to a slight depression, cross it

and descend a snow slope to Rosenegg. 45min

To return to the Gleckstein hut descend the Oberer

Grindelwald glacier SW then WNW to the coombe below the

Mitteljoch. Cross the coombe passing above Pt 3339m and go

between two rock islands to Hick. Reverse Route 34 (alternative) to

the hut. 3hr, 11-12hr in all

To return to the Dossen hut reverse Route 26. 2 .5 hr, 11-12hr

in all.

 

46-47

 

<<        >>