44-45
The pass is probably the easiest passage between the Lauteraar and
Gauli huts, but not the shortest. The pass
itself is not the lowest
point on the ridge between the Trifthorn and Ewigschneehorn but
the wide depression between the latter and Pt
3217m.
F From the Lauteraar hut follow Route 47 to about 2500m on the
Lauteraar glacier and then cross to the R side by Pt 2561.7m. From
here a track leads up to the Gaulipass (c3200m), which is reached by
climbing a rocky couloir. 4-5 hr
PD From the Gaulihut follow Route 13 onto the
Gauli glacier and cross
this SW to the Grienbargli glacier. Climb
this glacier, heading for
the upper part of the SE ridge of the Ewigschneehorn, and reach the
col by a short but steep rock section. 4hr
Ewigschneehorn 3329.4m
This peak provides an interesting excursion
between the Lauteraar
and Gaulihuts.
25 TRAVERSE
PD The traverse can be made with equal ease
in either direction but is
described from S to N.
From the Lauteraar Hut follow Route 23 to the Gaulipass. 4-5hr
Follow the ridge, comprised of large blocks
of gneiss, easily to
the summit (20min). Now descend the NE ridge
(Grienbargligrat)
which is reached from the summit by a steep
snow slope. Go down
the narrow crest of the ridge until close to
Pt 2686.3m, where a
short steep couloir allows the slopes of
Grienbargli to be reached.
Descend to the E foot of Grienbitrgli and
cross the Gauli glacier NE
to the foot of an 80m high couloir, which is
climbed easily on
polished rock- some stone fall danger. Walk
along a scree covered
terrace and join the path leading down to the
Gaulihut. 3-4hr, 7.5-
9.5 hr in all.
C Aebi with P Egger and P Inabnit
This is a fairly remote summit and quite a long way from any hut
base, and consequently it is infrequently
climbed. Maybe a good
reason to do it!
26
NORTH
RIDGE
AD W Graham with P Baumann father and son,
Can be climbed starting from either the
Dossen or Gauli huts. Both
approaches are described.
From the Dossen hut follow Route 31 over the
summit of the
Dossen to the Riinfenjoch. Easy snow slopes
lead SSW past
Pt 3250m to Rosenegg. 4-5hr
From the Gauli hut take the path towards
Chammliegg but
where the path turns SE, keep to a ravine
going roughly
under Pt 2610m on a terrace which leads, with
a short descent, to
the Gauli glacier near Pt 2589m. Follow the
edge of the glacier NW
to the snow slope below Watterlimi. Gradually
swing round to the
W and pass to the L of Pt 3250m from where Rosenegg is easily
reached. 4-5 hr
Now go S, keeping on the snow to the E side of
the N ridge, as
far as the Barglijoch. Some good climbing
over a couple of
gendarmes, then mixed snow and rock and
finally snow, leads to the
summit.2.5 hr, 6.5- 7.5hr in all
27 SOUTH RIDGE
D Either J Earle and M Brodley with M
Kohler,
F Pollock with P Baumann and P Rubi,
This is climbed from the Lauteraarsattel which is approached from either
the Gleckstein or Lauteraar huts
.
Reach the Lauteraarsattel by Route 46 or 47
(4-5hr). From here
keep to the W of Pt 3250m then, by a subsidiary
ridge with a short
sharp section, get onto the SSW ridge. Coming
from the Lauteraar
side this point can be reached by a snow
couloir. Cross a narrow
snow couloir and climb rocks on its R bank,
which transform into a
distinct ridge, as far as a tower barring the
way ahead. Get into the
narrow couloir on the L, climb it for a
little way then leave it on the
L side, where easy climbing leads to the S
ridge at a gap by the S
summit. From the gap exposed climbing (III
with bits of IV--) on
some gendarmes leads to the main summit. 4hr,
8-9hr in all
44-45