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Ritzlihorn 3263.1m

J Frey, between 1811 and 1818

A big mountain for these parts, with long and rather tedious

approaches. It s rarely climbed but no worse for that. There is one

worth while route.

21 EAST RIDGE (ARLENGRATLI)

TD- O Gerecht, H Hitss, E Meir and G Striissle, 21Aug 1949

A good climb azoay from the frenzy of the Handegg 'klettergarten'. The

ridge is about 1.5 km long and leads to Pt 3193m on the S ridge of the

mountain. The start of the climb is at the deepest gap in the ridge

between Pt 3193 m and the Stampfhoren.

From Handegg take the path to the Grueben hut as far as Arlen Alp

(1780m(. Turn NW up the Rindertal. A steep stony slope on the W

of the river leads to some slabs. Cross these (sheep track) to reach a

point above the torrent near Pt 2150m. Climb up to the

Wyssenbachlimelti below Pt 2479m. 3hr

It is also possible to approach from the Grueben hut by an

almost horizontal traverse, after passing N of Pt 2623m. 3hr

From the col climb along the ridge (II-III) as far as the first

major step (Pt 2814m) at about halfway. Traverse on the S side of

the step until slabs and short walls can be ascended back to the top

of the step. From the next gap keep to the crest (III-IV) as f ar as a

steep slab on the R with a crack. Climb the crack (20m, V, pitons)

and reach a belay a bit higher. Climb another step (grey rock) by

keeping a bit to the R for 20m (V, pitons), on some rocks which

overlap at the bottom. Continue on the ridge to a gap below a 50m

high tower.

Traverse horizontally R to a diedre which is climbed L wards

for 5m to a narrow ledge leading back to the crest (40m, V). Reach

the summit of the tower by a slab (IV). Easy climbing with one 10m

abseilleads to the top of Pt 3193m. 6-7hr

The summit of the Ritzlihorn is reached fairly easily by the S

ridge. 1.5 -2hr

Descent is from Pt 3193m. Climb down the S ridge for 80m

(II-III) to a small gap. From the gap head down E towards 21edges

60m below the ridge at the side of the gully running down to the

Arlen glacier. Abseil the last 20m onto the S-most of the ledges.

Descend 15m between the ledges then make 2 more abseils (40m in

all) before climbing down slabs for another 60m (III). Finally abseil

another 40m to the glacier. Regain the approach route via the

glacier. 1.5 hr

Hienderstock 3307m

W Coolidge and F Gardiner with R Almer and C Almer jnr,

15 Sept 1886

The mountain has twin summits, the NE being just one meter

higher than the SW which was climbed in 1889 by

H and A Baumgartner and party. It is frequently climbed from the

Lauteraar Hut.

22 TRAVERSE

AD V Fynn and W Murphy, 14 Aug 1891

This is an excellent climb on good rock, being a little easier in the

direction described but equally good in the opposite direction.

From the Lauteraar hut ascend N wards up a steep slope cut by

steps and ledges, to the SW, stony foot of Rothorn (3003m).

Follow the base of the SSE ridge of the Hienderstock onto the E

side of the Hinter Trift glacier, which is then climbed to the obvious

col at the foot of the W ridge. The col is gained by by climbing a

short rocky couloir. 3hr

Now climb the easy angled ridge, on good granite up slabs

and short steps, to the SW summit (1-1.5 hr). The ridge connecting

the two summits is followed on the crest or close to it, the numerous

short but sharp teeth being traversed or avoided. The highest,

shovel-shaped tooth is turned by a 10m long ledge on the N side

(1hr). Do not be tempted to try the traverse using the NE flank of

the ridge as the rock is very shattered and unstable.

Descend easily down the E ridge, over short steps to a distinct

shoulder. A diddre leads down (III+) to a 20m traverse R on good

rock back to a debris covered ledge on the crest (or abseil to this

point). Two pitches along the sharp ridge lead down to the

Hiendertelltijoch. 1 .5 hr

Climb down about 10mof yellowish rock on the S side of the

col then go down snow slopes on the V order Trift glacier, in a SSE

direction, to the top of a rocky barrier orientated N-S. A wide

couloir of snow or loose rock leads through the barrier. Follow the

stream-bed down to the level of Pt 2532m. Descend the shallow

valley SW of this point, working down to join the path from Grimsel

about 300m from the hut. About 9hr in all

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