40-41
F Gardiner with R and P Almer,
Situated immediately N of the Bachlital hut
this has a double
summit, the E one being lower (2818m) and
some 400m from the W summit.
AD+ Probably E Liechtiand H Vogeli, Sept 1930
An excellent climb.
From the Blichlital hut follow the path W for
about 100m then turn
N and climb up into the stony coombe below the S face, at first up a
gully system and then over slabs. Slant up L
to a couloir which leads
to the W ridge of the W summit. Climb the
couloir and the ridge,
over large granite blocks, to the W summit.
2-2.5 hr
Pass under a block very close to the S ridge
and reach the first
gap in the ridge joining the 2 summits. Cross
a slab to a 10m high
tower, which is climbed direct, then continue
along the crest over
gendarmes to a steep drop. Abseil 15m on the
N side to another gap.
Follow the crest to the last gendarme, which
overhangs on the N
side. Pass it by abseiling 20m on the N side
or climb up its S rib to
reach an abseil point and then descend 15m.
Continue on the ridge
to the E summit. Most of this is III with
some IV. 3hr
Descend SE down couloirs and short walls
until it is possible
to work back under the SE ridge of the E
summit. Descend to
Pt 2319m and then to the hut in a few more
minutes. 1 hr, about
7hr in all
Hiendertelltihorn 3179.4m
C Montandon and H Kilmmerli,
An impressive peak with very well defined ridges, the most
accessible and probably best being the E
ridge. The NW ridge can
be climbed from the Gauli hut (AD-) in about 5 hr, whilst the others
are approached from the Grueben hut. The S ridge is PD+ and the
N ridge is AD-, both require about 4hr.
20
EAST
RIDGE
D H Anderegg, F Lodwiz,
44 A good climb
on sound granite.
From the Grueben hut climb the Grueben
glacier to the foot of the
ridge, or go more directly from the flat part of the glacier over the
rock band which projects into the glacier
from the N. Move round
the NE side and find, at about 2800m, an easy
line leading L onto
the ridge just above its blunt nose. This
position can be gained by
climbing the blunt nose of the ridge starting
in a diedre 30m L of its
foot. Climb this diedre to its top and then
gain the crest of the ridge
via 2 small overhangs (V).
Climb the first step (piton) then an easy
ramp to its end. On
the R climb a steep 10m crack then move L
(piton) to a belay (IV+)
Move straight up the ridge for 40m (IV+ then
IV) then avoid the
next step on the E side and regain the crest.
Follow it to a steep
tower about 50m from the fore-summit. Turn
this on the R about
10m below the
crest (delicate, IV, pitons) or on its L side into a
couloir (III). Continue up a couloir on the N flank to a gap, before
climbing some small gendarmes to the summit.
About Shr
Descend the route, abseiling where necessary,
or go down the
S ridge to a col and from there get onto the
Grueben glacier to rejoin
the approach route.
40-41