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Obri Bachli Licken 3047m

 

E Farner, F Monnard and C Montandon, 5 Oct 1890

A high pass providing a means of passage between the Bachlital and

Gauli huts and access to the Bachlistock and Gr Diamantstock.

 

13        FROM THE WEST

PD       From the Gaulihut take the path past Chammliegg to a 80m couloir

leading down to the Gauli glacier. Descend the couloir on easy but

polished rock and then cross the glacier to the stream issuing from

Hiendertellti. Climb up the W side on moraine to the lower, stone

covered glacier. Climb the glacier in a SE direction and reach the

coombe below the Hindertelltihorn. Turn S up the glacier and

continue to where it begins to steepen at about 2800m. Climb

directly up to the col to the SE, crossing a bergschrund and

climbing some easy rocks just below the col itself. 4hr

 

14        FROM THE EAST

PD       From the Bachlitalhut follow a path W to the Bachli glacier. Climb

the glacier and pass to the R of the serac barrier to reach a flat

glacier basin. Climb a steep rocky slope NE to below the Undri

Blichli Licken (W gap). Traverse onto the N part of the Bachli

glacier and follow it under the rocks of the SW ridge of the Gr

Diamantstock to below the col. Climb to the col up slabby rocks

(III, pitons). 3hr

 

Gross Diamantstock 3162m

 

G Hasler with C Jossiand U Fuhrer, 25 Sept 1902

A fine rocky peak with some good climbing along its granite ridges.

Any pair of the 3 ridges can be combined into a worthwhile traverse

of the peak but without doubt it is desirable to include an ascent of

the E ridgein the itinerary. The NW ridge (AD-) is rarely climbed.

 

15        SOUTH-WEST RIDGE

PD       First ascent party

43        The easiest route on the mountain. Pleasant, easy climbing.

From the Bachlital hut follow Route 14 to the Obri Bachli Licken.

From the col keep on the W side of the ridge and climb the steep

part on good holds (III-). Easier climbing on the crest leads to the

summit. 1 .5 hr from the col.

It is possible to get onto the ridge from the Biichli glacier

without going to the Obri Blichli Licken. Climb easily up the E

flank of the ridge from a small snow basin situated directly below

the summit. This has the advantage of shortening the route and

gives the quickest descent, but it does miss the best of the climbing.

About 3 .5 hr from the hut

 

16        EAST RIDGE

D-        H Anderegg, H Baer, W Preiswerk and H Zilrcher, 4 July 1911

43        A really good climb with the greatest difficulty at the start, although this

can be avoided.

From the Blichlital or Grueben huts follow Routes 18 or 17 to the

Undri Bachli Licken. Climb the first step on its SE side (an

excellent pitch, IV-V) or traverse round its base on the N side.

Keep to the ridge, which is more or less horizontal at first and then

inclined gently, going over or around the numerous gendarmes.

One fairly tall gendarme is climbed on its S side before descending

into a gap before a pronounced step. Climb this by a crack, close to

the edge on the N side (IV), then keep to the crest over several short

steps (III and IV-). On the upper part of the ridge difficulties can be

avoided on the S side but it is more elegant to keep to the crest and

reach a platform below the summit. Climb a crack on the S side

)III+) or easy large blocks on the N side. 4-5hr in all

 

Undri Bachli Licken c 2720m

 

Probable first traverse by climbers: L Liechti, F Monnerat and

C Montandon, 24 Aug 1886

An unimportant pass, although it provides a means of connecting

the Grueben and Bilchlital huts and gives access to the E ridge of the

Gr Diamantstock. It has 2 gaps separated by a few small pinnacles.

The W gap is close to the foot of the E ridge of the

Gr Diamantstock.

 

17        FROM THE NORTH

PD       The 1886 party

From the Grueben hut descend SW onto the Grueben glacier and

cross it SSW. When below the gaps climb straight up and, after

crossing the bergschrund, get onto the unpleasant broken rock.

Climb this diagonally L to the E gap. Climb easily along the ridge

on its N flank for 50m to the W gap. 1.5 hr

 

18        ROM THE SOUTH

F          Follow Route 14 as far as the W gap. 1.5 hr

 

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