38-39
A high pass providing a means of passage between the Bachlital and
Gauli huts and access to the Bachlistock and Gr Diamantstock.
PD From the Gaulihut take the path past Chammliegg to a 80m couloir
leading down to the Gauli glacier. Descend
the couloir on easy but
polished rock and then cross the glacier to
the stream issuing from
Hiendertellti. Climb up the W side on moraine
to the lower, stone
covered glacier. Climb the glacier in a SE
direction and reach the
coombe below the Hindertelltihorn. Turn S up
the glacier and
continue to where it begins to steepen at
about 2800m. Climb
directly up to the col to the SE, crossing a
bergschrund and
climbing some easy rocks just below the col
itself. 4hr
PD From the
Bachlitalhut follow a path W to the Bachli glacier. Climb
the glacier and pass to the R of the serac
barrier to reach a flat
glacier basin. Climb a steep rocky slope NE
to below the Undri
Blichli Licken (W gap). Traverse onto the N part of the Bachli
glacier and follow it under the rocks of the
SW ridge of the Gr
Diamantstock to below the col. Climb to the
col up slabby rocks
(III,
pitons). 3hr
G Hasler with C Jossiand U Fuhrer,
A fine rocky peak with some good climbing along its granite ridges.
Any pair of the 3 ridges can be combined into
a worthwhile traverse
of the peak but without doubt it is desirable to include an ascent of
the E ridgein the itinerary. The NW ridge (AD-) is rarely climbed.
PD First ascent party
43 The
easiest route on the mountain. Pleasant, easy climbing.
From the Bachlital hut follow Route 14 to the Obri Bachli Licken.
From the col keep on the W side of the ridge
and climb the steep
part on good holds (III-). Easier climbing on
the crest leads to the
summit. 1 .5 hr from the col.
It is possible to get onto
the ridge from the Biichli glacier
without going to the Obri Blichli Licken.
Climb easily up the E
flank of the ridge from a small snow basin
situated directly below
the summit. This has the advantage of
shortening the route and
gives the quickest descent, but it does miss
the best of the climbing.
About 3 .5 hr from the hut
16
D- H Anderegg, H Baer,
43 A
really good climb with the greatest difficulty at the start, although this
can be avoided.
From the Blichlital or Grueben huts follow Routes 18 or 17 to the
Undri Bachli Licken. Climb the first step on
its SE side (an
excellent pitch, IV-V) or traverse round its
base on the N side.
Keep to the ridge, which is more or less
horizontal at first and then
inclined gently, going over or around the
numerous gendarmes.
One fairly tall gendarme is climbed on its S
side before descending
into a gap before a pronounced step. Climb
this by a crack, close to
the edge on the N side (IV), then keep to the
crest over several short
steps (III and IV-). On the upper part of the
ridge difficulties can be
avoided on the S side but it is more elegant
to keep to the crest and
reach a platform below the summit. Climb a
crack on the S side
)III+) or easy
large blocks on the N side. 4-5hr in all
Undri Bachli Licken c 2720m
Probable first traverse by climbers: L
Liechti, F Monnerat and
C Montandon,
An unimportant pass, although it provides a
means of connecting
the Grueben and Bilchlital huts and gives access to the E ridge of the
Gr Diamantstock. It has 2 gaps separated by a
few small pinnacles.
The W gap is close to the foot of the E ridge
of the
Gr Diamantstock.
PD The 1886 party
From the Grueben hut descend SW onto the
Grueben glacier and
cross it SSW. When below the gaps climb
straight up and, after
crossing the bergschrund, get onto the unpleasant broken rock.
Climb this diagonally L to the E gap. Climb easily along the ridge
on its N flank for 50m to the W gap. 1.5
hr
38-39