36-37
Fellenberglicken 2996m
E von Fellenberg with B Martiand J Tannler,
A useful pass between the Bachlital and
Lauteraarhorn huts, which
gives access to the Bachlistock. Not named on
the map.
PD From the Bachlital hut follow Route 14 as far as the flat glacier
43 basin.
Climb more or less direct to the col (Pt 2996m) which is
reached af ter crossing a bergschrund,
usually easy, followed by a
short rocky section. 2.5 -3hr
PD From the Lauteraar hut
follow the path coming from Grimsel for
300m then work
Nwards in a shallow valley to Pt 2532m. Now
traverse Ewards round the ridge, descending
from Pt 3118m, to the
scree slopes around Pt 2787m. At this level
contour round the
rocks of the Bitchlistock to a large scree terrace. From here the pass
can be seen as the lowest point between the
Biichlistock and the
Brandlammhorn. Climb up to below a small
snow-patch below the
gap and climb a rock step to get onto it.
Climb the snow to its upper
L edge then easily onto the bounding ridge,
which is followed for
80m W before an
easy descent can be made over blocks to the col.
3-3.5 hr
H and A Baumgartner and E von Rtitte with P
Baumann (father and
son) and M Michel,
The mountain has twin summits, NW and SE, the former being the
higher. The SE summit was climbed four years earlier by PH
Baumgartner and M Bremond with J von Bergen
and J Tiinnier,
27 Sept 1888. The ridge connecting the two summits is almost
horizontal.
12 TRAVERSE
AD+ A worth while climb along the ridge between
the Fellenberglicken and the
43 Obri
Blichli Licken. The Fellenberglicken is not named on the map but
is marked as Pt 2996m.
From the Blichlital hut follow Route 10 to
the Fellenberglicken.
2.5 -3 hr
Climb the first step of the SE ridge direct
(III). Easy
climbing, at first on the L then R side of
the ridge but all the time
close to it, leads to a gendarme on the level
part of the ridge. Abseil
15m on the N
side to easy terrain. Contour round the other
gendarmes on either side (although the last
one is best past on the L
side) and reach a gap below the summit. Climb
as direct as possible
from the gap to the summit. 3 .5 -4hr
Descend easily to a gap on the ridge
connecting the two
summits, then follow the more-or-less level
ridge to a final section
which has a number of small gendarmes. These
are best traversed
(III)
to reach the NW summit. 1hr
Turn NNE along the crest of the ridge, which
is mostly
shattered rock, with a few deviations onto
the SW flank, to the Obri
Bachli Licken. (1hr). From the col abseil
about 20m, depending on
the level of snow on the slope below, then
reverse Route 14 to the
hut. About 10 hr in all
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