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This is an attractive limestone climbing area close to the border
between the Cantons of Bern and Vaud but is actually in the Valais.
A road leads from Sion through Chandolin to cross the river Marge
at the Pont du Diable before eventually
reaching the
Sanetsch (2251m). Access is usually possible from the end of June
until October. On the N side of the col the road descends to a
reservoir (Lac de Senin) where there is parking and camping is
possible. There is accommodation available at the restaurant by the
dam, and on the road between Sion and the Col de Sanetsch at the
Auberge de Zanfleuron (dortoir).
The cliffs are extensive, facing SE across the reservoir but also
extending a further
2km SW, overlooking the
Le. Many of the routes on the SW section of the cliffs the routes are
2 or 3 pitches long but the cliffs above the reservoir have
considerably longer climbs of up to 300m.
Much of the development here can be attributed to the Remy
brothers, with routes dating back to 1982. In recent years other
131 practitioners have entered the scene and there currently exist well
132 over 50 routes with plenty of opportunity for further development.
133 From the Dent Blanche (Gstellihorn, 2817.7m) in the SW the
134 cliffs extend unbroken to the summit of Les Montons (2566.7m).
135 NE of this summit there is a steep couloir which provides a means of
37 descent. NE again rises another steep crag which rejoices in the
name of Orphee.
38 All the harder routes are fully equipped with in situ protection
39 but other protection should be carried on all the routes. Many of the
40 routes are equipped for abseil descent and these are indicated on the
topo diagrams.
60 PLUS TURUSES, PLUS TU T'USES VI with 2 steps
A1 Equipped
61 VOIE DE LA RAMPE V- Not sustained
62 DESCENDONS V+ A1 (A2 on first pitch) Carry pitons, descend
61
63 HOT COKE V+ Al and A2 Carry pitons, descend 61
64 ALIBABA V+ and A2 for one overhanging crack, carry pitons.
Abseil descent from 5m below crest. The variation is less sustained
65 GREATIME V with a short section of A1 Equipped. Descend 64
66 ROCK AND ROLL VI- and AO or VII+
67 VOIE DU FIL APLOMB VI+ but V after the break with 66.
Carry pitons
68 TSINGY VII and AO or VIII This and all following routes are
equipped
69 COEUR A CORPS VII and A0 or VIII
70 DOUCE
VIOLENCE VII and A0 or VII+
71 EUFRATE VII and A0 or VIII
72 AXIS VII and A0 or VIII
73 AU
BORD DU VIDE VI- and AO or VII+
74 COUP
D'AUDAGE VI- and AO or VIII
75 LES
ZEROS SONT FATIGUES V and AO or VI+
76 L'ANGE
BLEU VII and AO or VII+
77 PAS
PERDU V and AO or VI-
78 FANTASIO
V+ and AO or VI-
79 ESPRIT
DU JEU VII and AO or VII+
80 MEDUKANDIRATION
VI/VI+ and AO or VIII-
81 GRANDFINAL
VI/VI+ and AO or VIII
82 ESPACE
DU DESIR VII and AO or VII+
83 FACE
A FARCE VII+ and AO
84 SOMBRE
CONFUSION VII and AO or VII+
85 TOUT
OZZY MUT VII and AO or VIII+
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