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There are guite a large number of low altitude crags within the area
described in this guide, which are ideal for a day's bouldering. They
are what are called in German, Klettergarten, and in French, £cole
d'escalade. Mostly these crags have in situ protection and belay
anchors. In many cases route grades are indicated on the rock.
Included here is a list of some of these crags and their access route.
Map: Sustenpass (255) 176.5/656.3
Just N of the campsite in Meiringen on both sides of the road to
Hohflue there are several small crags with plenty of middle grade
climbs from 1 to 4 pitches in length.
Map:
On the N side of the
the Briinigen road from Meiringen). The approach is a bit difficult
to locate but probably the best starting point is the bend in the road
below Pt 812m. There are about 10 routes, mostly of two pitches,
which are equipped and vary in grade from IV+ to VI and Al.
Map:
Just N of the last crag described between Meiringen and Brienz.
From Meiringen take the road to Hohflue and then on to the
Brunigpass. The crags, which extend for about 1km, are reached
from the road about 400m E of the road tunnel. Routes exist of up
to 80m at about grade VI.
Map:
On the outskirts of
river at Pt 590m. Follow the path on the W side of the river as far as
a wooden seat. The crag is directly above. There are about 50 routes,
mostly grade VI to IX with just a few easier ones.
Map:
From Wilderswil (S of Interlaken) take the road towards Saxeten.
Just after crossing the river there is a hairpin bend below Pt 735m.
Park here and follow a path which runs below the crag. There are
about 40 routes of grade VI to X, nothing easier.
Map:
About 4km W of Grindelwald, at the Restaurant Stalden, a toll
road zig-zags N and then NW to Oberlager (Pt 1782m). Two
cliffs, NW and N of this point, on the Stellihorn and on Burg , each
have a number of routes, mostly bolted, in the grade VI-IX
range. The crags can be reached in 20mins to 30mins from the
parking area.
Map: Gantrisch (253) 163.3/605.9
In the Diemtigtal just off the route to the cliffs of Buufal and
Niderhorn. Take the road (toll) as for Buufal but leave this, at the
second R turn, for Rinderalp. Park at the end of the road running
SSW from Rinderalp. Tracks from here lead onto the top of rock
promontories on which the climbs are located. There are numerous
routes of 1 to 3 pitches on good limestone at grades VI to IX. Abseil
from the top to reach the climbs.
Map: St-Maurice (272) 127.2/564.5
This is just W of the
quarried limestone cliffs up to 50m high although some are only
about 10m high. There are aid climbs and free climbs to suit most
abilities.
Map: St-Maurice (272) 110.3/569.8
Just SE of the
the village on the road to Fully there is a parking place, on the N
side of the river, a little way beyond the bridge that crosses the
Rh6ne. There are several crags scattered about the hillside on the
Fully side and the Dor6naz side of the bridge. The rock here is
excellent gneiss with routes fully equipped so no gear need be
carried (it's bad for the rock). Routes vary in difficulty from about
IV to VI, the grades being marked on the rock.
Map: Rocher de Naye (262) 148.9/578.7
On the road between Granges and Gerignoz is a tunnel. The climbs
are on the cliff through which the tunnel passes. Access is from the
Chiteau d'Oex to Rougement road which is left just E of Granges
village. Park at the bridge crossing the river. There are eight routes
up to 25 m varying in grade from IV+ to VI and A1.
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