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The Argentine is a long ridge running roughly E-W between the
Diableret massif to the N and Grand Muveran to the S. There is a
lot of climbing available, but of most interest and best known is the
massive slab on its N side below Pts 2323m (Cheval Blanc) and
2325.2m, Haute Corde, called the Grand Miroir. The slab is about
400m high and roughly the same width, and is slightly convex.
In the valley below the cliff is the hamlet of Solalex
(bars/restaurants), which gets very crowded atweek-ends when you
will have to pay for car parking. Solalex is reached from the Bex
(Rh6ne valley) to Villars road by taking the turning E at La
Barboleusaz (campsite). The foot of the cliff is a steep 50min walk
from the car park.
The rock is limestone and is particularly slippery if at all
damp, but is quite sound. At one time there were a number of
serious accidents here but now most routes have plenty of in situ
protection and belay points. Once embarked on a climb it is quite
easy to lose the way, as there are many tempting variations and,
because of the convex nature of the slab, reference points are not
easy to locate. This is compounded by the step in the slab at half-
height.
A main feature of the cliff is the E chimney which rises from
the snow patch and was the first route climbed on the cliff. From a
point just R of its foot a rising ramp called the Vire Inf6rieure cuts
across the face below the Grand Miroir itself and the steep lower
wall. The Vire has broken but easy rock and is crossed by most
routes. A short way up the ramp is another chimney which
bifurcates. This is the famous Y after which the classic climb takes
its name. The slab to the R of the Y is the one with the step at half-
height. Just below this step is the Vire Sup£rieure which leads R to
the foot of a steep wall below the summit of Cheval Blanc. Below the
main slab and further R is the Dalle Bleue which is a smaller slab
above a distinctive shoulder.
Don't be tempted to climb here too early in the season as a
cornice often develops at the top of the cliff. At week-ends an early
start is advised.
Carry wedges and camming devices as well as plenty of slings
and karabiners for the in situ protection on all the routes.
Below the cliff the hillside is cut by a number of gullies. The
line of ascent (path) follows the line of the gully R of the one with
the snow patch.
Descent from the top of the cliff is along the crest E wards,
skirting round the S side of the summit of Haute Corde. Follow the
path which leaves the crest and heads NE to a saddle at Pt 2044m.
This can be a bit tricky to locate in mist, which often occurs in the
afternoon. Now continue in the same direction then bear N to
Anzeindaz from where a rough road leads back to Solalex.
Alternatively and more difficult, from the saddle turn L and make a
steep but more direct descent to Solalex. This alternative way
crosses some quite loose shaly ground but is easy enough to follow.
121 Don't be tempted into the stream bed from the ridge, the route
36 stays fairly close to the ridge after the section of undergrowth.
50 NARROW ARETE IV and IV+ to the top of the slab then V/A1
and A2
stonefall danger
IV+/A0 The classic route of the crag but by no means the best route. There are 14
pitches with all the belays fitted with two anchors. Each of the serious
pitches has pitons in place. The climb is not sustained, IV+ and AO for
one step, otherwise mostly III and IV.
1. A few awkward moves up R then scramble L up the rocky
gangway.
2. Climb a steep crack above the belay, passing a piton, then
trend R at the top to reach the long diagonal ramp.
3. Scramble up the ramp then up a pillar using chock-stones.
4. Climb the impending wall by a crack R of a piton then step
on it and with aid from a hand ring move to easier ground on
the L. Belay further L. This pitch is V done free.
5. Up cracks on the L side of the slab with a delicate step R.
The best pitch on the route.
6. Move up the broken chimney past two chock-stones.
7. Keepin the chimney past a bulge to a belay below some
flakes.
8. The chimney forks R. Take this fork and get into the upper
of two crack lines.
9-12. Four very good pitches following the crack line diagonally R.
13. Leave the crack line and climb towards the notch in the
summit ridge on the L side of an overlap (one or two thin
moves).
14. Climb up to the wall below the notch and climb this direct
(strenuous) or move L to climb a groove to the notch.
53 SUPERDIRECTE V and V+ with some short sections of A1 and
A2 A fine route
54 ZYGOFOLIS
VI/VI+ and AO A Remy brothers climb, good
55 DIRECTE
V One of the best climbs here, much more sustained
than 52
56 DIRECTE
DU CHEVAL BLANC VI and A1 with one section A2
57 GAMMA
VI and A1 one section A2 A Remy brothers climb,
equipped as far as the
final wall
58 HYPERZODIAQUE
VI and A1 and A2 A Remy brothers climb,
fine and sustained
climbing, exposed
59 DIRECTE
DE LA DALLE BLEUE VI and A1 with one section A2
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