226-227
The Sphinx forms the angle between the WSW and S faces and has
climbs of about 100 m on excellent rock, many in the modern idiom,
124 and virtually all fully equipped with bolts and pitons. Several of the
125 routes have become classics. A major problem on a cliff like this,
32 which is crammed with routes, is following the correct line. The
profusion of in situ gear can be quite misleading.
9 NEZ
DU SPHINX mainly artificial
10 SPHINX
COULOIR LEFTHAND ROUTE V+
11 SPHINX
COULOIR RIGHTHAND ROUTE VI-
13 VOIE
DES LAUSANNOIS VII+ or VI- with aid
14 VOIE
DES CHAMANS VII+
15 LA
FOLIE D'GLANDEURS VIII-/VIII or VII+ with aid
16 DIVA
VIIIor VII+ with aid
17 ZILISSE
VARIATION VII+ or VI+ with aid
18 DESIR
BRULANT VIII or VII+ with aid
19 NAUTILUSVII+/VIII-orVIIwithaid
20 PILIER
SONNEY VII+ or VI- with aid
21 APOPLEXIA
VII+ or VI-with aid
22 HITCHCOCK
VII with three aid points
23 LES
40 MOUVEMENTS VIII+ or VII with aid
24 ALI
BABA VIII-/VIII or VII with aid
25 DESPERATE
REALITY IX
26 HALF-MOON
CRACK V
Descend by abseil or join the tourist path near the top of the crag.
The East-North-East Face is reached by walking E along the path
below the S face then turning up the valley between the Tour d'Ai
and the Tour de Mayen. 30-45min. This same path can be reached
easily from the lift to Mayen from Leysin. 15-30min
The cliff is 100m-120m high and has some interesting climbs,
but one problem is that the rock does not dry quickly after rain. The
126 climbs described are on the R side of the face starting R of the
33 obvious cave. Routes are only partially equipped if at all.
27 LA
GROTTE, PLUM DUFF A3 Entirely artificial
28 LA
CHEMINEE HERBEUSE V Partly equipped
29 SPIATNIK
VI and A1 Mostly free, carry pitons
30 FINAL
SOLUTION V+ and A1 Mostly free, carry pitons
Descent is by the tourist route to the summit. This can be reached
by scrambling up to the summit from the top of routes, or make a
long traverse L to join it near the top of the gully leading through
the S face cliffs.
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