224-225
This impressive limestone peak overlooks the Soustal from its W
side. The Soustalitselfhas the Schilthorn at its upper S end. The
classic outing here is the traverse of the various towers forming the
crest of the mountain. It is a popular climb with pitons cemented
into place. There are also two established steep routes of about
130m on the stratified S wall of the main summit, which is a bit
broken and fragile in places.
Approach from the Lobhorner hut (see huts section) by a path
to the E end of the summit ridge (1 V2hr) or from the Soustal which
122 is most conveniently reached from Lauterbrunnen.
Descent from the summit is by abseil on the W side.
57 TRAVERSE
58
59 NEW SOUTH FACE ROUTE IV and V with one section of V+
The Canton of Vaud has a large number of quite easily accessible
limestone crags offering some first rate climbing on sound rock.
These will be found attractive to the dedicated rock climber and by
the alpinist looking for a bit of variety or an alternative pursuit when
higher peaks are out of condition.
Many of the climbs described here come into the modern
route category but there are plenty that might be attempted by those
who only feel comfortable on more traditional routes. Many of the
routes are equipped, at least partially, with in situ protection and
even the climber of modest ability can enjoy some of the routes if
prepared to use a bit of aid.
The maps of the area are: Rocher de Naye
(262),
and
This is a popular peak above Leysin on the N side. It has a long
crest descending from the summit in a SSE direction up which goes
the tourist route of ascent. The peak is surrounded on all sides by
steep cliffs with only one easy break on the R side of the S face.
Climbs have been developed on all the cliffs, many by staff and
students of the nearby ISM.
Reach the Tour d'Ai from Leysin on foot in about 1V2hr or by
the lift to La Berneuse. From here the WSW face and the Sphinx
are clearly seen and can be reached in 30min and 20min
respectively. Climbs are described on three separate parts of the
mountain, on the WSW face, on the Sphinx and on the ENE face.
The West-South-West Face varies in height from about 70m at its
R hand end to 150m on the L. The climbing here is less popular than
on the Sphinx and therefore less crowded but has recently seen a lot
123 of new development. Most of the climbs are partly equipped with in
30 situ protection but parties should carry some pitons as well as the
31 usual wedges and camming devices. Most of the routes described
have been climbed free or have now merged with other routes.
1 VOIE
DES VIRES V Classic 150 m equipped
2 VOLOVAN
V and A1 Large camming device useful instead of an
old wooden wedge
3 MILLE
BRIQUE VI and A2 Requires a good selection of pitons
4 DIEDRE
BLEU VI or V and AO Carry some large hexentrics
5 GONZOV+andA1
6 LA
CHEMINEE V+ Interesting free climb, carry some big
wedges
7 GARDE-BARRIERE
V
8 DIEDREDUVAGABOND
V+
Descent is by the tourist route from the summit.
224-225