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The Weisse Fluh is an unremarkable peak at the S end of the
Ueschenengrat and N of the Schwarenbach hotel (see hut section).
However on its SE side there is an impressive cliff about 150m high
and 400m wide on which there are a number of hard routes.
Approach from the Schwarenbach hote1by the path to
Schwarengratli in about 30min. Walk under the crag (avoiding
nettles) to its R side where the climbs are located. All the routes are
fully equipped with in situ protection but some wedges and Friends
120 1.5-2.5 Should be carried. Descent is by abseil from fixed points or
28 by an easy walk to turn the cliff on its S side.
44 PANORAMA
DIRECT VII+/A0
45 PANORAMA VIII-/VIII
46 TACHO EX TRA VII+/VIII-/A0
47 TACHO VIII+ or VII/A0
48 MELCHIOR VII-
49 SATELLIT VII+ The start is marked
50 KENTAUR VIII-
51 MAUER LAUFER IX or VII+/A0
The Armighorn is on the E side of the Kandertal above the village
of Mitholz. From the summit of the mountain a ridge runs S before
throwing out a spur running SW. On this spur is the S summit
(2583m, but not marked on the map). The climbs described are on
the SW flank of this summit. At the foot of the flank are three
distinct towers, the highest of which is Pt 2403m. The cliff can be
seen on the NE skyline from the centre of Kandersteg. It can be
approached on foot from the Kiental or from Mitholz but the easiest
way is to use the private lift from Mitholz to Alp Giesenen at 1660m.
This can be arranged (ideally beforehand) by asking at the last
house on the L in Mitholz on the road towards Kandersteg. This is
just before the railway bridge. At the time of writing the charge was
10SFr. The crag is about 75min walk from the top of the lift and is
approached from the W side of the three towers in a couloir.
The climbs shown in the topo and photograph are equipped
with in situ protection. It is usual to finish on the summit and make
a descent to the foot of the cliff on the E side but it is quite an easy
matter to reach the main summit from the top of the climbs.
To reach the foot of the climbs themselves it is necessary to
climb to a scree-covered bay behind the highest tower by way of the
W ridge route.
Descent from all the routes is from the saddle 40m NE of the
129 S summit where fixed ropes lead down the E flank. These are
29 followed by grassy slopes and rocks into the bowl of Hitchlere.
52 WEST RIDGE
D H Grossen
and H Trachsel,
Used as an approach to the harder climbs but enjoyable enough in its own
right. Difficulties are up to grade IV, belays are equipped.
Start at the foot of the ridge which rises from the couloir on the W
side of the three towers at the foot of this flank of the mountain.
Keep more or less on the crest all the way, any deviations being
obvious. On the third and fifth pitches detours to the R are
somewhat easier than keeping on the crest. 2-3hr
53 GLATTE PLATTEN VII+ or VI/A0
54 GRAUE PLATTEN V or IV+/A0
55 SUDWANDLIVII-orV+/A1
56 NEUES SUDWANDLI V
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