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Ueschenen, Wyssi Flub and Armighorn

A few cliffs with easy access from Kandersteg have been developed

since the 1960s but most extensively in the 1980s. The most notable

activists have been H Grossen, W Hofer, J von Kanel, M Trachsel

and M and M Stettler. All the climbing is on good quality

limestone. Although not all strictly in the Bernese Fore-Alps the

three cliffs described are included here for convenience. Of the

three, the most important is that of Ueschenen. It is one of the best

known cliffs in Switzerland and has over 70 routes varying in

difficulty from grade V- to X.

Kandersteg itself has only one campsite which is often full in

summer. There is another campsite in Frutigen.

Ueschenen is just beyond the S end of the Kandertal. The valley

splits into three; the Gasteretal running E, another, high valley,

leading SSW to the Gemmipass whilst to the SW rises the valley of

Ueschenen. The extensive cliffs, facing SE and overlooking the

valley from its NW slopes, are up to 150m high.

There are two approaches: from the end of the public road S

of Kandersteg it is possible to drive into the Ueschenen valley on

payment of a toll at the bar adjacent to the Stock lift station. Park

near the road head, after taking aR turn, at Pt 1595m. The cliffis

117 30 min uphill from the car park. Alternatively take the Allmen lift

118 on the W side of Kandersteg and walk S to reach the cliff.

119 All the routes shown in the topos and photographs are fully

25 equipped with in situ protection but it is usually necessary to carry a

26 few wedges and camming devices. As is usual, most routes can be

27 climbed with the use of aid, thus lowering the grade. Several routes

are fixed for abseil descent, otherwise this is by walking NE to turn

the end of the cliff.

24 WAGE ZU TRAUMEN IX-- or VII/A0

25 ARGUS VI/VI+

26 QUO VADIS VII+ or VI/A0

27 KNOW HOW VII+ or VI+/A0

28 FRITZ UND ROLF VIII-or VI+/A0

29 TYPHON VII+ or VII-/A0

30 ZURCHER-SPORT-WEGVIIorVI/A0

31 GRAUE WAND VI or V/A0

32 DIAGONAL VI+ or VI/A0

33 BAUMROUTE VI+ or VI-/A0

34 AURIKEL PRIMULA V-/V 4 pitches of IV/IV+ and 2 top

pitches V-/V, no topo

35 PFILERWADLI VII+ A one pitch climb

36 TOFFLI VI+ or V/A0 A two pitch climb

37 ALIEN VII- or VI+/A0

38 HANNIBAL VIII- or VII-/A0

39 JOKER VII/VII+ or VII-/A0

40 FUSION X-/X A one pitch climb

41 FILIDOR VII+ or V+/Al

42 UPATOPIE VIII or VIII-lA0

43 LAMPENFIEBER VII+/VIII- or VI+/A0

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