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These are two mountains SE of Boltigen in the Simmental, but the
easiest approach to the climbs is from the Diemtigtal which runs
SW from Oey (campsite) in the Simmental, 5 km from Wimmis.
9kmfrom Oey, at Zwischenfluh, a road branches off R at Pt 1041m.
Pay a toll at the house on the L (W) of the turning, before the gate.
Follow this road up the valley to where it crosses the bridge at Pt
1515m (car park). The Buufal cliffs can be seen on the N side of the
valley from here. To reach the cliffs of the Niderhorn, continue
along the road taking the R fork. There is a car park at the second
hairpin bend on the rough road below the cliffs. There is a
Verboden sign on the road ahead.
Both the cliffs are limestone with good quality rock. At Buufal
there are two sections of the cliffs that are of interest but by far the
best climb here is on the Meniggrund Pfeiler (600.8/161.5). This is
the original route dating from 1965. Adjacent to this route is one
climbed in 1985 (Anker and Kochli) which is VII+ (Zytischda).
Reach the cliff from the car park by a path through the wood
which peters out on a scree slope above. Climb this, then a grass
slope which leads to a chimney slanting up from L to R. When dry
this is climbed on the inside, otherwise turn it on the R. Gain the
foot of the pillar by a couloir on the L.
To descend, scramble through trees to reach a grassy couloir
which provides a way to the alp of Hefuess (1745m). From here a
couloir with a fixed cable leads into woods where a faint track leads
back to the bridge at 1515m.
12 MENIGGRUND
PFEILER - THUNERWEG
TD+ A fine climb of about 230 m on good rock. One pitch of V+ and another
130 VI- with short sections of A I. Find the start of the route behind a block
23 on the terrace(piton).
Further L, E of the car park is another steep crag with a distinctive
roof (600.6/161.3). Several one, two and three pitch climbs exist
here at grades VI-VII which were opened in the late 1980s. All are
115 fully equipped with in situ protection and abseil points and follow
22 lines of bolts and pitons.
13 RISBISI VII The start is marked
14 LUCKEBUSSER VI+
15 KAKADUVIII+/IX-
16 POLTERGEIST V+
17 STORNSTUND VI+
18 SPION VII
19 TOPAS VII+
For the climbs on the Niderhorn (SE flank) follow the road from the
hairpin bend S for about 500m then climb up scree to a path below
the cliffs. Turn L on this for a further 100m, finally grassy slopes
lead to the foot of the Schmetterlingspfeiler.
The cliff, about 100m high, consists of pillars and towers
broken by grassy ledges and separated by couloirs. The routes
described , mostly quite short, are below the highest point of the
mountain on good rock. They are all fully equipped with in situ
protection and have mostly been free climbed at VIII/IX. About
100m S there are some buttresses on which exist short modern
routes. Along the whole length of the cliffs there exist possibilities
116 for new routes.
24 The easiest descent is by a marked couloir 300m N from the
summit.
20 KB F WAND IV+, A1 and A2 Mixed aid and free climbing
21 SCHMETTERLINGSPFEILER IV+ or V A delightful little
climb, V and AO on the first pitch
22 EAST WALL V+ and AO Follows a system of cracks
23 KB F PFEILER V and A1 Mostly free but with some aid on most
pitches
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