216-217
D The ridge has numerous teeth and towers in its l km length, some of which
113 can be avoided if necessary, which gives some varied and very
entertaining climbing without ever being too difficult. The upper limit of
difficulty is about IV+ but much of the route is III. A single 40m rope
should suffice.
From the car park climb up steep wooded slopes (track) to the col at
the S end of the ridge (
45 min
The first big tower is called Eggturm. Start up this a few m L
Of the crest at a crack. Climb this to the crest and follow it to a belay
(40m, III+). Next climb a slab and a short wall to a rib (30m, IV).
Climb 8m up a wall (IV+) then follow the ridge for about 30m.
Next climb a short chimney and leave it R wards to gain the summit
of the tower (40m, III). Descend on the NE side then scramble
across to the foot of a narrow gendarme (Petit Pouce). Climb to a
gap then follow the crest to the top (IV). Abseil to the gap below the
Grand Pouce, the next tower.
From the gap start on the R then move L wards onto the steep
crest. Climb this to the summit (40m, IV+ and the crux of the
traverse). Descend on the NE side. Turn the next gendarme and
climb it by its N rib (20m, III-IV). Abseil 15m to the foot of the
next tower (Pyramid) and climb it by its SW rib (III). Descend
easily to a further gap then climb a couloir to the bottom of an open
diddre (II). Climb this to an overhang then move L to reach the
highest point (Marchzahne, 40m, III).
The remaining three teeth of the Marchziihne and the
following gendarme are usually turned on the E side (easy). A final
tower in this section is climbed on the W side (III). Two 20m abseils
on the N side are made and lead to a lower gendarme (Chemigiipfe) it
with three separate towers. Climb the three towers on their S sides
making 10m-12m abseils between towers. Descend to the E in a
couloir then turn N and pick up a track leading back towards the
alps of Obere Gastlosen. About 6-7hr for the round trip
A little further S is the Wandfluh where there are about 30 mainly
short routes at about grade VI and above. The crag is reached by
driving along the valley road below Gastiosen, passing Unt Birren
(Pt 1425). The road rises towards Pt 1647m. Make a sharp R turn I
just before this point and park directly below the crags, two of
which are only 5min from the parking area.
Trumelhorn 1981.6m and Chemiflue 1878m
On the 1:25000 map the Trtimelhorn is named Trimlenhorn and
this is the name given in the SAC guide book to the area. See the
introduction to Gastiosen for camping details.
On the E side of the Jaunpass, in the Simmental, is the village
of Riedenbach and just NE of this is Boltigen. The two crags are to
the W of the villages. There are two approaches. From Riedenbach
take the minor road to Schwarzenmatt and continue to the road
head at Chlus. The two crags can seen from here and are reached by
the steep vegetated slope to the NE (vague track). The alternative
approach is from Boltigen. Take the road leading N through
Adlemsried which leads finally into Alp Ramseren at 1365m. Take
the path from here leading round the S side of the Mittagflue to Alp
Nilschleten. There is an obvious gap in the ridge to the W which is
immediately S of the Chemiflue. Pass through the gap to reach the
climbs on the W and SW faces of the Chemiflue or traverse under
these faces Nwards to the buttress of the Tramelhorn. 1-1V2hr
On the Triimelhorn there is only one route of any real interest and
that is the NW spur, a superb steep buttress seen in profile from 3
Chlus. The finest line is the direct one climbed by H Trachel and
A Grossen in 1966. The original route was climbed first in 1960 by
TD The direct route is mainly free, after the initial aid section, on good sound
112 rock. The original line on the R is shown in the photograph. Some gear is
20 in place. There is about 200m of climbing. Descend by going E to a gap
then down a couloir Smards to Alp Nilschleten or climb down on
the N side (II, III) to return to the foot of the climb.
The Chemiflue (593.9/164.9) has a steep triangular two-faceted face
on the W side providing a number of interesting climbs. The classic
route here is the original one on the face dating back to 1937
(O Theikiis with F and
114 climb up the S ridge starting at the gap described in the approach.
19 This is mostly IV with one step of V.
8 NORTH-WEST SPUR An interesting climb with pitches of V and
TD some sections of aid. Some in situ gear. About 200m of climbing.
9 WEST FACE The classic climb which ascends the obvious crack
TD system. Fully equipped with in situ gear, all that is needed are slings
and carabineers. Mostly free, about 200m.
10 SOUTH-WEST CRACK A worthwhile climb utilizing some aid.
TD Most of the necessary pitons are in place. About 200m.
11 SOUTH-WEST FACE PILLAR A good climb on excellent rock
TD joining the SW Crack route for the final two pitches. It is equipped
with in situ gear but requires some large camming devices. About
200m.
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