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This is a large region of limestone hills/mountains with a profusion
of cliffs on which climbing is practised. The region extends from the
Jaunpass in the W to Meiringen in the E. Its S border is the main
Alpine chain and its N border is roughly a line running E and W
from Thun. Climbs on a few of these cliffs are described here. Apart
from the climbing the whole of this area provides wonderful
walking country.
Maps of the area are: Gantrisch
(253),
(263) and
FromMatten, which is NNW of Lenk in the Simmental, a side
valley (Fermental) leads NE before curving back SSE. The peak is
on the N side of this valley and the crags (Rote Fluh) face S onto it.
The rock is steep and compact orange coloured limestone offering
five routes of about 300m each which were developed in the late 60s
and 70s. The routes are equipped with in situ protection but it
would be wise to carry wedges and small camming devices. The aid
grades can be reduced for climbers prepared to use hooks.
Park on the road below the crag and take the path from Buel to
reach its foot. Below the crag are three ledge systems. Climb to the
111 highest of these via cracks, diddres and short walls in about 150m of
21 climbing. About 1.5 - 2hr from the road
1 DIRECT ROUTE ED Steep and sustained climbing, the main
feature is the 6m high roof which is A3.
amount of aid climbing.
3 DIAGONAL ROUTE TD The easiest of the climbs on the face
and mostly free. Well worth doing to get a feel for the place.
4 GEMEINSCHAFTSWEG TD+ The route uses a lot of aid in
the lower half but above that it is mainly free climbing.
5 FRUTIGERWEG ED1 The best route on the crag and worth a
visit for its own sake. It takes a direct line to the summit and is
mostly free.
Descend by the W ridge, turning the fore-summit on the N side, to
reach a grassy shoulder. Turn S down the second couloir to reach
the track leading to the valley.
Not strictly in the Bernese
Fore-Alps as it is in the
Fribourg on the W side of the Jaunpass. Camping is possible at the
Jaunpass and this is the only site close to the crag. It is also a
suitable base for climbs on the Chemiflue and Trtimelhorn. Other
camp sites are at Lenk in the Ober Simmental, at Zweisimmen and
at Oey in the Nieder Simmental. This, and the two crags described
next, can be reached
from
in addition to the walk-in time.
The peak overlooks the town of Jaun from the S and is at the
end of a very extensive ridge, which has multiple summits, running
roughly NE-SW. There is an enormous potential for new routes, of
up to 300m, along the whole length of the ridge. To reach the
climbing from Jaun take the road towards the Jaunpass but leave it
for a minor road following the river (Jaunli) SE. After about 4km
take a R turn leading to Grat. There is parking here (and a bar) and
a little way before this where another road leads to Oberberg.
The main interest here is a traverse of the peak by its fine
crenellated ridge. There is also a small crag at the foot of the E face
and only 10min walk from the parking area. It has short rock climbs
ranging in difficulty from VI- to IX+. Most have gear in place but a
few require a selection of wedges to be carried.
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