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Klein Wellhorn South-East Face
Climbs on this mountain have been described earlier in this book;
one of these is on the SE face (Route 45). Two modern style routes
have been added (1987 and 1988), each of about 750min length,
which are fully equipped with pitons and bolts although K Ochsner,
the instigator and leader on the first ascents, has a reputation for
fairly well-spaced gear so carry some wedges and camming devices.
Route finding relies very much on following the lines of in situ gear.
Approach the face as for Route 45.
Map for this area is:
19 ADLERAUGE VII or VI+ and AO belays are all equipped with 2
VII bolts. Allow 7-10 hr
Start 30 m R of Route 45 (start is marked).
1 25m. Direct over an overhang. VI
2 25m. Move up first R then L and finally L again to an
overhang. Over this then belay on the L at a flake. V+
3 45m. More or less straight up the wall to a short crack slanting
R and to a thread belay on a L sloping ramp. VI+
4 40m. Up R to a thread then back twards to a bolt then up to
the belay. VII-
5 35m. Up R then L past a line of bolts and pitons to a thread
before moving straight up to the next belay. VII-
6 20m. Straight up then L before trending back R to belay. VI
7 42m. Ramps and grooves lead up L wards to a belay on a ramp.
IV
8 25m. Straight up over an overhang then past a thread to the
next belay (thread). VII
9 35m. Diagonally L past one thread to a second thread then
direct to an overhang with a belay above this. VI+
10 40m. Follow a crack L wards then straight up passing a ramp
leaning L before trending slightly R to a belay. VI
11 40m. Straight up then trend slightly R to a thread on the R of a
bulge then up to the belay level with the top of the bulge.
VI+
12 45m. Climb the wall fairly direct to reach easier ground. VII
13 35m. Just L of the belay climb the wall direct. VII-
14 45m. Diagonally L to a flake and above it move L to belay. VI+
15 30m. Up to a ledge above the belay then slant L to an overhang.
Over this to belay a few m higher. VII
16 25m. Traverse R then straight up and R again to belay. VII
17 40m. Straight up passing a thread and a spike. VI-
18 35m. Move Rwards then straight up to a thread belay on a
ramp. VII-
19 20m. Above the belay move L then back R to a thread and belay
on the ledge above. V
20 30m. Up to the ridge. V-
Descend by abseiling down the route or follow Route 43
(main section) in reverse.
20 GLETSCHERSINFONIE VII+ or VII- and A0; belays are all
VII+ equipped with 2 bolts. Allow 8-10hr
The start is L ofRoute45 and involves moving 100m up the glacier and
crossing a bergschrund. Start at an obvious niche with a bolt belay below
a big groove and system of corners.
1 35m. From the R side of the niche straight up. VI-
2 15m. Over the overhang above the belay to belay at the top of a
flake. VI+
3 40m. Up L to a slanting overhang. Over this near it L end to
ledges. VII+
4 45m. 10m to the back of the ledges then up past a thread before
moving L to the next belay. VI
5 40m. Diagonally L to a thread and the next belay above this.
VII
6 30m. Move R then up past two threads to belay on a ramp. V-
7 15m. Up to a belay below an overhang. VI
8 40m. Move R and then up to join Route 45 and reach the big
groove. I (Route 45 continues up the groove)
9 35m. Climb the L wall of the groove past two threads to a
thread belay below an overhang. VI+
10 45m. Traverse R up to a ramp line then follow this L then move
up to a thread and a belay on its L. VI-
11 20m. Easy ground leads up L. III
12 45m. Straight up the wall to a thread. Above this move L then
up to belay on a ramp. VII+
13 35m. Traverse R then move up to a boss. Pass R of this to a
belay. VI
14 35m. Climb up to and over an overhang then keep moving
gradually L before a traverse R leads to a belay. VI
15 30m. Straight up a crack to belay on a ledge. VI+
16 15m. R on the ledge then up R to belay at a thread. VII-
17 40m. Up diagonally R past two bolts, then up moving slightly L
to gain a belay on a ledge on the R. VI
18 45m. R for a few m then straight up to gain a groove on the L.
Follow this to a ledge on the R then straight up over an
overhang to belay on the edge of easy ground. VI+
Follow easy ground for 70m.
19 20m. Straight up past two threads to belay at a third. IV
20 40m. Straight up for 20m then make a descent R wards before
climbing up to the next belay past a thread. VI
21 40m. Straight up past a slight bulge. VII
22 30m. Move up R to a gapin the ridge above (easy) or climb up
L to pass a flake on its L then over an overhang to reach
the ridge. VII+
Descend by reversing Route 43 (main section) or abseil down
Adlerauge or this route.
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