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Tannenspitze and Rosenlauistock North Faces
The two faces merge to form a steep, almost triangular slab about
350m high with easy access from the Engelhorn hut, from which it
can be clearly seen. It is conveniently sited just above the path to the
hut from Rosenlaui. Routes are equipped with in situ protection but
wedges and camming devices should be carried.
V+ A good climb first done in 1977, V+ with three steps ofA2.
110 Start 25m R from the widest rocky gully at the foot of the cliff. First
climb up cracks in a diedre (50m, II). Now go up L to a small jagged
spike (25m, III) before some easy, partly grassed, slopes lead to a
steep wall (15m). Continue L over slabs for 30m (III). Climb a 10m
crack before stepping 3m R and then up to the next belay. Continue
in a diddre for 45m (V) then over a step before working up R to
belay after 30m (III). Climb two more diedres and a steep slab
(30m, IV+). Next move up R then L, then gain the crack above
which leads to a belay (25m, IV+). Continue via a slab, moving L at
the top to belay (30m, V and A2). Now climb a bulging wall before
traversing R into a small gully (30m, V and A2). Go straight up at
first from here then L via a crack (25m, V+ and AO). Climb straight
up again then move R over the edge (junction with Route 15) before
moving L again to a prominent overhang. Pass through a gap and
climb slabs to below the next overhang (40m in all, IV+). Climb the
overhang then traverse 10m R before climbing up to the next belay
(45m, V+ and A2). Move up L wards, finally over slabs to the last
belay (30m, V, route book). Reach the summit via a chimney (IV).
5 hr
V+ An enjoyable free climb with one pitch of V+. First climbed in 1956.
110 Start some way R of the line of the dibdre (verschneidung) by
climbing easy rock for 20monto a slab. Traverse L wards to a wall
below the dibdre and climb this by a crack until forced to exit R into
the great diadre. Climb it to its top and a big overhang (V-). Climb
the overhang by a deep crack to reach the large niche above after
25m (V+). Traverse L over short but difficult steps to reach a scree
gully and finally climb vegetated slabs (delicate), keeping R, to gain
the ridge joining the two summits. 4-5hr
16 NORDUBERHANGE
VIII- or VII-/A0 Fine slab climbing but
not sustained
17 NORTH-WEST FLANK IV Nice slab climbing
18 NORTH-WEST
FLANK CRACK IV+ Awkward, the poorest
route here. No topo
Descent from the Tannenspitze is as for Route 13. Descent from the
Rosenlauistock is from the gap between the two summits direct to
the Grasspass by way of the SE flank (I and II).
The SW face of the Rosenlauistock has a number of worth while
routes with easy access from the Engelhorn hut.
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