208-209
ED1
109 First climbed in 1988. Considered to be worthwhile but at the same time
17 serious. The rock is not completely reliable everywhere and additional
protection to that in place should be carried. VII+ or VII and AO. The
route is equipped for abseil.
PD First ascent party
The ordinary route, quite easy but with some interesting climbing, and the
usual route of descent. Stone fall in the couloir is a problem when other
parties are above and this is not a nice place to be in a storm.
From the Engelhorn hut follow the approach path to a scree slope
rising on the NW side of the Rosenlauistock. Follow the track
towards the Rosenlauistock then make a short descent to reach
grassy slopes interspersed with short rock steps. Climb this slope
L wards (tracks) then cross a couloir descending from the gap S of
the Rosenlauistock. Keep moving almost horizontally to a very
obvious grassy shoulder. 45min
Climb steep grassy slopes above the shoulder (track) to below
a yellow wall at the foot of a ridge (leading up to the Engelburg
summit). Now traverse horizontally R until a short descent can be
made into a scree-filled couloir (cairn - look for this in descent).
Slant up R on grassy slopes then straight up to a conspicuous
gendarme. More grass and scree lead to the col above (Ochsensattel,
c 2299m). 45min
The pleasant climbing begins here. Follow a slightly
descending track R to a horizontal rib. This can be reached from the
conspicuous gendarme without going to the Ochsensattel. Descend
into a wide couloir (descending from Kastor and Pollux). Climb the
couloir on its R side (track) to a small col (cairn). Now climb up
slanting R under a steep wall, then climb the R side of a steep slab
(good but small holds, III-) to a piton on the crest of a rib. Traverse
horizontally R to another piton in the couloir descending from a gap
in the ridge above. Climb the smooth couloir (exposed) for two
pitches keeping on the R side (II+). The couloir opens out and easy
stepped and stone-covered slopes lead R wards to the steeper
summit rocks. Climb a reddish-yellow couloir up R wards (good
holds) and gain the W ridge. Follow the ridge on its R side to the
summit. 2hr, allow 4hr from the hut
A group of fairly low peaks NW of the Kingspitz of fering relatively
easy climbing that can be attempted soon after poor weather.
13 TRAVERSE
AD+ First climbed in two stages: W ridge of Rosenlauistock and E ridge
of Tannenspitze, H Kuntze, G Hasler and U
Fuhrer,
W ridge Engelburg and W ridge Sattelspitzen, H Kuntze, G Hasler
and M Kohler,
Entertaining climbing, nowhere harder than IV unless the
Rosenlauistock ridge is climbed direct, and mostly III. The climb can be
abandoned at the Grasspass.
From the Engelhorn hut follow Route 12 to the couloir coming from
the gap S of the Rosenlauistock. Climb up the couloir to a grassy
terrace leading L. Follow this to reach the crest of the ridge above a
steep step. Climb R at first (II) then up to a grassy platform. Enter a
gully on the R and in it climb a 6m step (IV) leading to a rib.
Continue to a cave before moving up R to a ledge on the crest.
Climb a crack (IV+) to overcome the next step, then continue more
easily up the ridge before moving L into a deep couloir which leads
back to the crest (III+).
Move up L to a small stance under an overhang. Move L onto
the NW face and climb a smooth slab, first 3mhorizontally L (III+)
then up to the ridge. Now climb up L wards to a gap between the W
and main summits of the Rosenlauistock. Follow the crest to the
top. 2-2.5 hr
To climb the ridge direct: from the ledge on the crest after the
cave, climb a smooth slab to reach a deep crack (V). This leads R to
an exposed dibdre (V) which slants R and leads to a series of steep
slabs. Climb another crack (IV-) to reach a niche and then climb
gradually L to reach the summit ridge.
Descend, on the SW side, a chimney leading to a terrace.
Follow this to the lowest gap before the Tannenspitze. From the
gap climb the narrow ridge, avoiding a steep step on the R, to reach
the main steep section. Move R into a narrow dibdre and climb this
on good holds to a small shoulder. From here move up to a ledge on
the crest. Now climb the crest direct to a shoulder below the final
step. Move gradually L up the crest to the summit of the
Tannenspitze. 1hr
Descend the E ridge for a little way then the S face to a piton.
Make two abseils to a grassy col (Grasspass). The climb can be left
here by descending on the W side.
From the col follow easy slopes to a shoulder on the W ridge
of the Engelburg then follow the crest to a steep step. Move up L
into a couloir and follow this to a grassy ledge and then climb the
crest on the L to the summit of the Engelburg (IV). 1hr
Descend on the SW side to the saddle before the
Sattelspitzen. Keep on the ridge to below a big step. Climb down R
to a stone-covered ledge and then climb a chimney slanting R across
the S face of the NW summit. Move up easily to this summit and
then into the gap before the main summit. Climb to this direct (III)
or more easily from the L (it is possible to climb the big step direct
(IV) to the NW summit). 30min
Descend on the SE side to a terrace then slant down L wards
over short steep steps to reach a small platform. Now descend a
couloir and slabs (II) to reach the Ochsensattel. 30min
Probably the best finish to the traverse is to descend to the
Ochsental. Follow traces of track, rising slightly, to a short rock rib.
Climb this then step R (S) to a chimney-couloir and descend this to
a grassy shoulder. Leave this on the R and traverse a steep wall to a
scree-filled couloir. Go down the couloir to a short rib and an abseil
point. Make one abseil of about 20m then continue down the couloir
on the L side over a few slabby steps before being disgorged into the
Ochsental. 1hr to the hut, allow 6-8hr in all
208-209
