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Gross Simelistock South-West Face
108 All the routes, which are up to 250m in length, are fully equipped
16 with in situ protection, but wedges and camming devices should be
carried.
3 SILBERFINGER VII
4 SILBERMAGIC IX or VII- and AO
5 DECUBITUS VIII+ or VII- and AO
6 AGONIE IX or VIII- and AO
7 LIMITE VIII- or VII- and AO
8 SUDPILIERV+
G
This is the peak SE of the Gross Simelistock and the Simelisattel. Its
most attractive feature is its W ridge.
D+ A long (400m) and demanding climb, one ofthe best in the Engelhlirner.
The upper part of the ridge is steep and very exposed. The rock is good
and pitons are in place. Aid is used in places and the grades given allow
for its use. Use ofa double rope is recommended in view of the sharp
nature of the rock.
From the Engelhorn hut walk up the Ochsental to its flat part and
continue to the foot of the R-hand of three couloirs (route to the
Simelisattel). Climb the couloir to where it widens and becomes less
steep then move R out onto its bounding edge across smooth slabs.
Continue up to the foot of the ridge over grassy slabs. On the R is a
subsidiary ridge. Climb to its crest by a grassy diddre (III, delicate)
then follow the crest to a steep wall. Slant up R (III) to an exposed
stance, then climb vertically for 10m (III+) before following a
couloir L wards for 60m (II) to a distinctive gendarme on the W
ridge itself.
Follow the crest for a little way then move L and climb on this
side to reach a good belay below a steepening of the ridge (IV-).
ENGELHORNER
AND KLEIN WELLHORN SOUTH-EAST FACE
Climb a short dibdre on the L and then slabs (III+), all the time on
the L of the crest, then move up the crest (III) for a few m before a
traverse R leads to another good belay. Move up R to a ledge (IV)
then, from its R end, climb a vertical diadre for 8m to a niche.
Continue upwards by first moving R then back L (IV) to reach a
steep crack which leads to a cramped belay (IV). Climb a grey bulge
using a leaning crack (IV) which widens into a couloir. Follow this
to the upper part of the climb.
Climb a vertical crack for 10m (IV+) to a narrow ledge which
is followed R for 15m (IV) to a niche (don't belay). Continue up
exposed slabby rock (IV) to another niche and belay (about 40m in
all from the foot of the crack). Take care on this pitch to avoid rope
drag on account of the number of pitons and the changes in
direction. Now climb a crack (III) to a ledge which is followed to the
L to a chimney-crack. Climb this (III) to the summit ridge which is
followed (III-) to the top. About 5 hr from the hut
Decend on traces of track across scree slopes on the E side to a rocky
shoulder. Climb down rocks, or turn them on the R in a yellow
couloir, to reach a saddle above a section of pinnacles on the ridge.
Descend a few m on the Ochsental side to an abseil point and make
a 20m abseil down slabs towards the Simelisattel. Keep moving
down slightly L wards then descend a couloir before reaching the
Simelisattel. Continue as for the descent from the Gross Simelistock
(Route 1).
H King with A Anthamatten and A Supersaxo,
Undoubtedly the finest peak in the Engelharner and particularly
impressive on its N side where one finds the classic NE face route.
The face has attracted some attention from the modern rock climber
and a route by D Anker and M Piola is described.
10
TD H Haidegger and M Litthiwith
H Steuri,
109 A classic and frequently climbed route which has all the necessary pitons
17 in place. The middle section ofthe climb is quite sustained. The rock is
good but there is danger of stone fall created by other parties on the route.
There is over 500m of climbing, aid is used but etriers are not really
necessary. The foot of the face is reached in about 30min from the
Engelhorn hut by walking up the Ochsental. Start at a band of yellow
rock a few m L of the summit fall-line and below detached rocks at 60m.
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