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Engelhorner
and Klein Wellhorn South-East Face
This area of magnificent limestone peaks at the NE corner of the
Oberland massif is within easy striking distance of Meiringen, the
Haslital and of Grindelwald, from where a post bus can be taken to
Rosenlauion the E side of the Grosse Scheidegg pass. It is well
worth a visit when the higher mountains are out of condition, or as a
bit of variety from the granite slabs of Handegg.
There are many long established easy climbs, on good rock, to
the summits of the various peaks, whilst in recent years many
harder climbs have been created.
The obvious base for many of the climbs is the Engelhorn hut
(see huts section) although many routes are quite feasible
undertakings from the valley. Note however that there is no
camping in the valley. All the climbs described here are easily
accessible from the hut which is at the foot of the Ochsental on the E
side.
Maps for this area are:
Gross Simelistock
2482m
One of the finest peaks in the group with a very impressive SW face
on which have been developed several modern routes.
1 TRAVERSE
AD H. Brog,
O. Neiger and N Kohler,
108 It is usual to include the Kl Simelistock in the traverse, which is one of
the most popular excursions in the area. There are rock pitches of III and
two steps of IV.
From the Engelhorn hut head SE up the Ochsental to reach a band
of rock crossing the coombe (10min). Now turn L on a well-worn
track up scree to reach a grassy terrace below a steep wall. At the
end of the terrace climb a grassy couloir to reach a smali col and
from there attain a more obvious col on the NW ridge of the K1
Simelistock.
Climb a couloir leading slightly L to get onto the E flank of
the ridge, then continue in the same direction for about 35m up
rocky ledges and short steps. A deep slabby diedre leads R to the
ridge crest which is followed to a slight depression. The ridge
becomes more interesting and turns towards the R. Follow the crest
for a little way, then slant L to a rib and climb this back to the crest
of the main ridge just L of a fine tower. Climb down into a gap then
follow the crest to another couloir (III+) Climb slabs on the R of the
ENGELHORNER AND KLEIN
WELLHORN SOUTH-EAST FACE
couloir and so gain the top of the K1 Simelistock. 1.5 hr
Descend ledges to the gap beyond then climb fairly easily up
the ridge to reach the final wall. Traverse some slabs to a fault line
parallel to the crest and climb this to a projecting block before
making a short descent on the R side. Go 2m along a narrow ledge
then climb up L onto the block. Descend into the next gap. A
terrace leads R wards and is followed to its R end where it joins the
SW ridge (piton belay). Climb the wall above direct for about 10m
(IV-) then the crest of the ridge (IV) before slanting R to the
summit. 1.5 hr
To descend go NE at first then down a grassy crack on the R
to an abseil point. Make three short abseils to reach the Simelisattel.
Now go down a stone-filled couloir on the W side to a smooth step
(piton). Abseil or climb down this then continue in the couloir to a
second piton. Now descend a couloir with overlapping steps at the
bottom, then a short vertical step. Move L onto a grassy shoulder
(cairn). A steep couloir on the L leads onto slabs which are followed
Lwards to the spur below the W rib of the Vorderspitze. Go down
grassy slopes (vague track) then head across L to reach the S-most of
three couloirs (there is a snow patch at the top of the central
couloir). Keep on the L side of the couloir as far as a rocky
projection, then traverse delicately into the couloir before following
it down into the coombe. Easy slopes lead back to the hut. 1.5 hr,
allow about 6hr in all
D+ C Macdonald with P and R Almer,
10m above the level of the Simelisattel is a small rubble-covered terrace.
From the terrace a steep chimney leads directly towards the summit of the
Gross Simelistock. This provides a strenuous climb of about 100 m with
moves up to V.
From the saddle climb vertical rocks (IV) to the terrace. A smooth
narrow chimney is climbed to a piton before exposed moves up
R wards over a smooth bulge (V) leads to a piton belay. Continue up
the steep but easier chimney before moving R above a vertical wall
to a belay on a rib on the R (abseil point for descent). Easy climbing
up the chimney follows, but it is better to continue straight up from
the belay over a smooth step and a grassy crack slanting R.
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