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202-203

 

Cascade 667.3/158.6

 

 

This is quite an extensive cliff although routes have only been

developed on one section of it. It is situated W of Maree and

somewhat higher on the hillside. After exiting from the tunnel

through the Mar6e cliff continue to the bridge below the cascade

(obvious). The cliff is 15min scramble up the hillside on the E side

of the torrent and the climbs are located on the steep buttress just R

of a deep chimney.

The climbs are about 200m in length and are a little easier

106   than the majority in the area. Only Razmataz is fully equipped with

14    in situ protection and belays. Descent to the foot of the cliff is by

walking W towards the cascade then down grass slopes, or it is

possible to descend to the E back to the dam wall.

 

41 LES PETITS BAINEURS V+ and A2

42 RAZAMATAZ V+/VI

43 FOREIGNER VI

 

Eldorado 664.3/157.3

 

 

Situated at the W end of the Grimselsee above its N shore and about

1 V2hr walk from the Grimsel Hospiz on the route to the Lauteraar

hut (Route HS). Without doubt this is the major cliff in the area and

one of the finest in the Alps. It has classic routes, of 500m length, in

a much more varied style than can be found in the other cliffs of this

region.

Only Routes 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 8 are fully equipped with in situ

protection and belays, but even on these routes wedges and

107   camming devices should be carried. 45m of rope should suffice. The

15    descent is on the E side of the cliff and takes about 30min to the foot

(or abseil down Motorhead).

 

44 GENESE V+/VI-

45 DJAMSMODELE VI+ Etriers needed

46 MARCHE OU CREVE VII+

47 SEPTUMANIA VI+

48 MOTORHEAD VII- or VI+ and AO

49 VENONVII or VII-and A0

50 FRANZ BENELLI VII+

51 METAL HURLANT VII or VII- and AO

52 SIMPLE SOLUTION V+ and VI

53 RADIO SONDE V and VI

54 BALAIAERIEN V-and VI

 

202-203

 

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