190-191
Les Diablerets 3209.7m
G Studer and M Ulrich with J Ansermoz and J Madutz,
19 Aug 1850
This is the highest summit in the Vaud Alps and near the W limit of 7
the peaks described in this guide book. The name refers to a 4
relatively complex group of summits, the highest point indicated on
the map being called Sommet des Diablerets. This top appears to be
about 5m lower than a rocky point some 60m to the E. There is also
a snowy top to the NE of this which is sometimes higher. In simple
terms the massif is mainly snow on the N side and mostly rock on
the S side. The mountain has been spoiled to some extent by the
incursion of ski-lifts, but it is still able to provide a good day's sport.
The mountain has been the scene of some spectacular
landslips over the years, the best known being those in 1714 and
1749, and it is well worth making a slight diversion to have a look at
the results.
PD The route takes in some
varied terrain although most of the ground
covered is glacier. There is a nice
contrast between this and the rocks of
the Tour St Martin and the pyramid of the
Oldenhorn(also called the
Becca d'Auden). There are some strikingly
different views to be admired,
especially the landslips. The route can be
done in a day from the
Pillon by utilising the lift system,
otherwise start from the Diablerets hut.
From the Diablerets hut follow a track S onto the Sex Rouge glacier
and climb this to the Colde Tsanfleuron (2839m). 1hr
The col can be reached from the top t616ph6rique station by a
path descending ESE. 10min
Climb easy snow slopes SW over Pt 3016m (the Dom) and
along a snow crest to get onto the Diablerets glacier. Follow this to
the summit. 1.5 hr
It is worth making a short detour to the SE top of the Sommet
des Diablerets (The de Balme, 3185m but not marked on the map)
to see the debris left by the land slips to the SE (Eboulement des
Diablerets).
Descend from here back to Pt 3016m then, first E and then
SE, descend gently to the base of the Tour St Martin (2908.1m).
Start on the NW side by climbing a short wall from L to R (III) to
the NW ridge. Now go up slabs and a bulging wall to a vertical
chimney. Climb this (II, some dubious blocks) then more slabs to
the summit. About 45m in all. 1hr
Descend by two abseils back to the Tsanfleuron glacier and
cross this N wards to the col E of the Oldenhorn (Pt 2737m). Follow
the E ridge (traces of track) to the Oldenhorn summit. 1 V2hr
To return to the Col de Tsanfleuron either descend the SW
ridge (abseils on the last step) or go back down the E ridge to the col
and walk under the S flank. 1hr, allow 6-8hr in all
190-191