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Grand Muveran 3051.1m
A rock peak well seen from the Rh6ne valley, which offers some
good rock climbing even though the quality of the rock is not
particularly good. The summit is well worth a visit for the views
alone.
F
The easiest route and only a short climb from the Rambert hut. It is quite
easy to do the route in a day from the valley.
From the Rambert hut climb a grass and scree slope N wards up the
crest of the S rib, which is in the middle of the S face and directly
above the hut. Cross a few short rock bands R wards (avoid going L)
to reach a wide chimney with a yellow tower on its L. Climb another
30m then follow a terrace L wards, climbing gradually for about
250m(
the summit. 1V2hr
308 SOUTH-SOUTH-WEST
(SAILLE) RIDGE
D+ Probably R Chevalley and M Francey, 1937
Climbed earlier than the date given but the crux section was avoided. It
is a good climb with good rock where it matters. It is possible to do the
route in a day from the valley starting at Pont de Nant (NW of the
mountain). There are pitches of III and IV with one of IV+ and
another V--.
From the Rambert hut follow a track to the foot of the ridge and
ascend it to the first difficulties. Climb the first step direct for a few
m then make a 6m traverse R before slanting up R to the foot of a
diedre. Climb this using a slab on the L at first, then in the bed of
the diedre to a piton. Now move R onto the rib bordering the diedre
and climb this for a few m (30m, IV, exposed). Less steep slabs lead
back to the crest of the ridge.
Climb the next step on the R of the crest by an overhanging
chimney-crack (piton) followed by a slab on the L (IV). Take the
third step direct at first, then avoid a wall on the R (III) before
slanting back L and finishing by a ramp to the R (III). Easier
climbing on loose rock, then in a chimney-couloir leads to a small
saddle at the foot of a big overhanging wall (good views across the W
face).
Climb a vertical wall to an obvious niche and good belay. Now
move L wards to a vertical diedre which leads to a delicate traverse L
(20m, IV+, exposed). A slab leads back R then a short but
overhanging wall is climbed to another vertical dibdre. Climb this
(V-) then an easy couloir to the top of the step. Easier slabs with
some short walls (III) are now followed to the summit. 4-5hr
The crux section can be avoided by a long traverse R followed
by a short ascent up three chimneys (II and III) then a long traverse
L back to the ridge.
AD A short but pleasant climb, quite delicate in places.
From the Rambert hut follow Route 307 to the chimney and yellow
tower. Instead of going L continue up the slabby rib to the final step
below the E ridge. It is best here to go L and climb a chimney-
couloir with a few short walls (III) to reach the E ridge. Follow this
easily to the summit. 3hr
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