188-189
G Studer with A Schlippiand a local shepherd,
This is an attractive and fairly isolated peak situated N of Sion in the
same time has some enjoyable routes for the summer alpinist. From
the summit the vista to the S is reward enough for climbing the
peak, irrespective of the pleasure experienced during the ascent.
The rock on the ridge crests is quite good but on the flanks it is
loose.
PD A von Bonstetten and Fr Streckeisen with C and J Jilggi,
27 July 1882
Quite straightforward with nothing more than II on rock.
From the Wildhorn hut head SW, passing Pt 2495m and then the
small lake at Pt 2465m before climbing the scree slope to the ridge
itself at Pt 2738m. 1-1 .5 hr
Follow the ridge, broad at first then narrow, to Pt 2949m.
Climb down into a gap beyond this point and next climb a gendarme
on its R side before reaching stony slopes and a track. Go over
several short steps, making one short climb slanting L, to reach the
fore-summit. Cross easily to the slightly higher main summit. 3hr,
about 4.5 hr in all
303 NORTH RIDGE
BY ITS NORTH-EAST RIB
D K Germann and
A nice rock climb on the crest of the rib, mostly III with one step of IV-.
The rib is the obvious one descending NE fom Pt 2949m.
From the Wildhorn hut follow Route 302 to the lake at Pt 2465m,
then climb direct to the foot of the rib. Start on the L and follow a
stony ramp slanting up R. On the L, just short of the crest, climb
up easily to where the rock steepens. Either climb the step direct, on
the crest or by a slab. Either way take care with the rock (good belay
after 25m). Pleasant climbing then for about 200m up the crest leads
to a comfortable stance.
Start the next section direct, or on the R and climb a slab by
slanting R (IV-) before reaching Pt 2949m. Continue to the summit
by Route 302. 2-2V2hr for the rib, about 6hr in all
PD First ascent party
The ordinary route, almost entirely on snow. There are various
possibilities for getting onto the upper part of the Tungel glacier
depending on the state of its lower part. The most reliable way is
described.
From the Wildhorn hut follow a track SW leading onto the moraine
of the Tungel glacier and follow this to the N side of Chilchli. Keep
on the rocks on the E side of this rock island as far as its SE corner
and here get onto the glacier. Climb up past Pt 2912.2m (go either
side) onto the T6n6het glacier and follow this SW to the summit
(crevasses). 3hr
305 FROM THE
PD Hubler with J Schwitzgebel, about 1879
The easiest route from the Gelten hut.
From the Gelten hutfollow the track, starting NE, onto the terrace
called Rottal. Cross the stream then, on the R side of the terrace,
reach a stream coming from the R. Now head up past Pt 2425m
(crossing a few streams) before turning E to Pt 2578.5m (traces of
track). Climb easy snow slopes to the Col du Brotset (2759m).
From the col follow traces of track on the N side of rocks
situated just E of the col, and reach the ridge beyond these rocks.
Climb the ridge easily to a rocky obstacle a little way below the
summit. Move R on steep brown rocks for a few moves and climb a
2m wall to a stone-covered ledge. Go N along this as far as a steep
couloir which leads to the ridge above the step. The summit is now
attained easily. 5-6hr
188-189