186-187
Local people in 1834
The most notable feature is the triangular NW face which appears
as a big smooth snow slope contrasting well with the more dramatic
N face of the Balmhorn. There is little of interest in climbing Altels
for its own sake but it is always worth doing in combination with the
Balmhorn.
PD First ascent party
89 Mostly used in descent after traversing from the Balmhorn. Rather
monotonous m ascent.
From Schwarenbach follow Route 293 round the N foot of the Chli
Rinderhorn then cross the moraines of the Schwarz glacier to the
bottom of the NW ridge (vague track). Climb the ridge to
Pt 3418m. Above this, climb a steeper slabby section, then follow
the steep snow crest to the summit. 5-6hr
E von Fellenberg
and J Tritten,
and M Schmid in 1855
There are two summits of the same altitude on the long curving and
almost horizontal ridge with a third top only slightly lower.
Collectively they are called Wildstrubel. The peak at the SW end of
the ridge takes this name whilst the second top, of the same height,
is called Mittelstrubel and the E most top is the Grossstrubel. The
N and W flanks are quite precipitous, whilst the enclosed E and S
flanks form a gently sloping glacier bowl.
A pleasant and easy outing is a traverse of the main crest
which can be combined with a longer traverse starting at the
Daubenhorn or the Schneehorn. From the Grossstrubel a descent
on the N side can be made to Adelboden. The mountain is popular
with ski-tourers.
F First ascent party
An easy walk across an attractive glacier with rewarding views from the
summa.
From the Wildstrubel hut climb a path to the lowest col on the S
side of the Weisshorn. Descend from here onto the Plaine Morte
glacier and cross this until directly below Pt 2910m (a yellowish 1
rock nose). A good track leads from here to the summit. 2.5 hr
F T Hinchliff
and L Stephen with M Anderegg,
An easy climb up the glacier bowl that can be convieniently turned into a
circular tour ofthe tops.
From the Lammeren hut head SW to turn the Lammerenhorn on
its W side. Get onto the central moraine of the Wildstrubel glacier
and follow it in a big arc until heading W close to the rock buttress
below Pt 3172m. Pass through the narrow section of the glacier
(crevasses) then either head SW to the Lilmmerenjoch and climb the
SE ridge easily to the summit or take a direct line to the summit.
2 .5 hr
301 TRAVERSE FROM
THE DAUBENHORN
AD- Running SE then E, from the SW summit of the Wildstrubel group is a
Long ridge terminating at the Daubenhorn(2941.7m), whose E face soars
above Leukerbad. The traverse can be joined at the S chneejoch (3020m)
by climbing the Lammeren glacier. It is a mixed climb, easier than the
grade suggested of the E ridges of the Daubenhorn and S chwarzhorn are
omitted. Some of the rock is very loose. Viewed from the Liimmeren hut,
the route follows the skyline seen to the S, as far as the Wildstrubel
summit.
From the Wildstrubel hotel walk down to the lowest point of the
Gemmipass, then go up stony slopes and easy rocks to a band of
light coloured rock. Climb this about 100mfrom the ridge on the L
and continue up rock steps to get onto the E ridge of the
Daubenhorn. Follow this to the summit. There is a 50m step of III
on good rock and another step of III close to the summit. 3hr
To avoid the E ridge, reach the flat
from the Liimmeren hut or the Wildstrubel hotel and climb the
stony band slanting up SE wards towards the summit. 2 .5 hr
From the summit climb easily down to the col S of the peak.
Turn W towards Pt 2973mand pass round the S side of a tower to
reach the point. Now either climb the ridge to Pt 2993m (III, loose)
or turn it on the S side. From the col on the W side of this point
climb up towards the Schwarzhorn. The first step reached is
climbed direct (III). The one below the summit is climbed, initially
up the second chimney on the L and then by the third chimney on
the L, before finishing on the crest (II-III, good rock). 2hr
It is possible to turn the Schwarzhorn on the S side by a big
detour round the foot of the S ridge.
Descend the easy W ridge to the col at 3005m then make a
pleasant climb up the NE ridge to the top of the Rothorn (II). Snow
and stony slopes lead down to the Schneejoch (3020m). 1hr
To reach the Schneejoch from the Lammeren hut get onto the
Liimmeren glacier by climbing steep slopes up the sierac zone (PD).
This is usually done by keeping close to the rocks on the W side to
start and then crossing to the E side of the glacier. Once up this
section climb up under the Rothorn then traverse W to the pass. 2hr
Now climb the Schneehorn by its SE ridge and continue over
three more tops to the Liimmerenjoch and thence to the Wildstrubel
summit. 2hr
From here it is possible to descend to the Plaine Morte glacier
(Route 299) or the Lilmmeren hut (Route 300) or to continue along
the ridge to the other summits of the Wildstrubel. This latter is very
straightforward and easy to the Grossstrubel. 1 .5 hr
From the Grossstrubel return to the col at Pt 3092m. To
descend to the Lilmmeren hut go down the broad couloir on the S
side (406) on snow and unpleasant shale, and join Route 300 back to
the hut. If the couloir is icy or the snow is too soft, it is possible to
descend rocks 50m E of the couloir bed. To descend to Adelboden
head NW down snow slopes then follow traces of track NE to the
broad col SE of Pt 2827m. Descend onto the Strubel glacier and
follow this NW towards Sch6nbilel where a path is joined which
leads to Engstligenalp (berghaus). 2hr, allow 8-12hr in all from the
Wildstrubel Hotel to Engstligenalp, about 6-7hr if the Schneejoch is
reached direct from the Liimmeren hut
186-187