184-185
F, H and Miss L Walker with M and J Anderegg,
The N face of the Balmhorn (and Altels) makes a fine sight on the
drive up the Kandertal towards Kandersteg. The crest joining the
two summits is a classic expedition. On the E side of the face is the
NE ridge which makes a good approach route to the interconnecting
ridge and is a good climb in its own right. The SE ridge, rising from
a point close to the Lotschenpass, is a good rock climb. Of least
interest is the ordinary route which climbs the SW ridge.
PD First ascent party
A rather tedious climb on account of the low starting point. There is over
I600m of height gain.
From Schwarenbach follow the track running E round the base of
the Chli Rinderhorn to get onto the Schwarz glacier. Climb this
(steep at the top) to the col W of Pt 3117.6m. 2.5 -3hr
Follow the ridge (traces of track if not snow covered) to about
3300mfrom where easy slopes lead to the fore-summit (3669m).
Follow the crest E to the main summit. 2-3hr, 5-6hr in all
AD- H Lohnert, F Wyss-Wyss and A von Steiger with F Ogi and
89 H
Hari,
This interconnecting ridge between the Balmhom and Altels is highly
recommended in either direction but is much more friequently done from
the Balmhorn to Altels.
From the Balmhorn summit follow the snow crest W to the fore-
summit. Continue WNW down snow slopes, which soon become a
ridge, and reach a saddle. A narrow snow crest, corniced in places,
is followed over two steps. The second is usually climbed on the W
side, to the rocks of Altels. At first traverse on the W side then, by
an easy couloir, get back onto the ridge and follow it to the summit
of Altels. 1 .5 hr
D- P Desaules
and
89 The face is broad and glaciated, almost entirely snow and ice, and is
abour 1200 m high but not very steep. The sieracs vary from year to year
but usually there is a band of sieracs below the summit which must be
climbed or turned on the L. Although it may be possible to climb the face
direct from the bottom, the narrow section(see photograph) is usually
impassable. The route is objectively fairly safe.
From the Balmhorn hut get onto the R lateral moraine of the
Balmhorn glacier. Climb this and then the glacier to a height of
about 2500m, a bit below the NW rib (this is the rib descending
from Pt 3402m on the NE ridge). Climb up the N side of the rib
then cross it at its narrowest point (II-III, cable) to reach the E side
of the face.
Move diagonally R into the middle of the face and climb as
direct as possible to the summit. 7-10hr
296 NORTH-EAST
(WILDELSIG) RIDGE
AD H Biehly
and H Seiler with A Miller sur and jnr,
89 A good route but more for the situations experienced than for the quality
of the climbing. Well worth combining with a traverse of Altels.
From the Balmhorn hut follow a track generally SE onto the first
part of the ridge and climb it easily to where it narrows considerably
near Pt 2821.7m. Continue up the ridge, turning the first gendarme
on the E side, to the bottom of a big step where there is a
commemorative plaque. On the E side follow a stony terrace for
about 100m (gradual descent) to a small cairn. A steep couloir (III-)
leads back R to the crest (stone fall from other parties). It may be
better to climb on the R side of the couloir to start.
Follow the crest to a snowy step. Climb this on the E side
using shattered rocks then, once above the step, continue up the
ridge to the final big step (Pt 3402m). Climb this on the E side and
then follow the ridge over two short but steep snow steps to a little
plateau from where a corniced ridge leads to the summit. 5-7hr
It is possible to reach Pt 3402m by its NW rib (D) by
following Route 295 to the E edge of the N face and then climbing
the rib between the crest and the glacier face. Same time
AD H Dilbi
and L Liechti with C and H Hari,
Seen in profile, the ridge looks like a giant staircase. The rock is not
particularly good but handled carefully it is safe enough. Well worth
doing, the difficulties are mostly III with two sections of lV.
From the Lotschenpass hut climb easy snow slopes to the
Gitzifurggen (2915m) and then turn N up more snow slopes and
some rocks to the foot of the ridge. Go up the ridge to a ladder and
use this to gain a platform and the start of the real climbing. Keep to
the crest on the first step (III+, II) and climb the second direct
(III-). The third step is overcome by a dibdre and a chimney (both
III+/IV-). Above this get into a couloir on the L of the ridge and
climb this to reach a narrow ledge line on the E side. From the end
of the ledge climb straight up then slant L to the base of the fourth
step. Start this at a rib on the R then work L to a small couloir
which leads back to the crest (III+). The step can be avoided on the
W side.
The ridge becomes less steep and leads to the fifth step. Climb
this one direct (IV) or turn it 20m L of the ridge and then climb
direct (III). Finally a few small teeth and a snow crest lead to the
summit (there is one small overhang, IV). 5-7hr
184-185