174-175
E von Fellenberg and A Roth with J Bischoff, K Blatter and
C Lauener,
The central peak of the Bliiemlisalp, it has some fine short routes. It
is usually climbed in combination with the Morgenhorn and/or the
Blitemlisalphorn.
AD First ascent party
The route is considerably easier than the grade given ifthe ridge is
entirely cramponable snow. However it is frequently icy, even early in the
season.
From the Bliiemlisalp hut climb the E branch of the Bhiemlisalp
glacier to the snowy saddle S of Ufen Stock. Now climb the rocks at
the foot of the ridge and then follow the steep snow/ice crest to the
summit. There are belay stakes in place on the upper part of the
ridge. 2.5 -3.5 hr
D+ First ascent party not known
Although somewhat shorter, it is more difficult than the Blilemlisalphorn
N face on account of its steepness and regular angle (55o). It is a plain
snow/ice slope about 300m high.
From the Blitemlisalp hut climb the E branch of the Blitemlisalp
glacier to the foot of the steepest part of the face, directly below the
summit. Cross a bergschrund where practicable, then take as direct
a line as possible to the summit. 3-4hr
AD
The climb is started from the summit of theMorgenhorn. It is entirely on
snow, except in very dry summers, narrow in places and is often corniced.
From the summit of the Morgenhorn follow the ridge on or near the
crest all the way to the summit of the Wyssi Frau. 1-2hr
H Baedecker with J
Bischoff and U Lauener,
The E summit of the Blitemlisalp, possessing a magnificent N face.
It is most frequently climbed by its NW ridge and combined with a
traverse of the Wyssi Frau and Bltiemlisalphorn. It is the only peak
of the three which is worth climbing from the S side.
PD First ascent party
94 A much frequented climb but of no great interest. It is useful as a means
of descent or as a start to the traverse of the Blitemlisalp.
From the Bltiemlisalp hut climb the E branch of the Blitemlisalp
glacier into the glacier bowl below the Morgenhorn and Wyssi Frau.
Climb up L wards to the ridge (one icy step) then follow it or its NW
flank to the summit. Any crevasses on the upper part of the ridge
are usually turned on the N side. 3-4hr
TD+ M Aurich
and
94 G
Siedoff and H Trachsel,
The N face, about 1300m high, is big and complex with several slanting
rock bands interspersed with steep ice. Directly under the summit is a
band of sieracs which makes routes on this part of the face potentially
dangerous. In general the rock is poor and most of the routes on the face
suffer from stone fall, although this appears to be at a minimum on the
route described. The climb follows a fairly direct line to the fore-summit.
The rock sections (up to lV+) are on sloping and overlapping rock on
which protection is not easy to arrange. It is best attempted when the rock
is dry and free e fverglas (hence the late season first ascent) since friction
on the rock is fairly essential. Other routes on the face are shown on the
photograph.
From the Gspaltenhorn hut follow the track S onto the Gamchi
glacier and cross this to the W towards Pt 2254.3m. Climb up the
snowy bay just short of this point and, on the L, climb a ramp 80-
100m high onto a rib (III, IV-). Climb the rib for about 200m to
where it steepens then move R onto a parallel rib. Climb this to the
base of a big rock band. Go up this L wards (IV+) and then continue
straight up to a vertical rock band. Surmount this in a couloir for
two pitches and then on its edge (IV+). Mixed ground and the
upper ice slope then lead directly to the fore-summit. Reach the
main summit by the E ridge. 10-15hr
174-175