176-177
281
D G Hasler and Miss H Kuntze with J
von Allmen,
94 From
the Gamchillicke:
This is along ridge giving fairly sustained climbing on quite good rock. It
is usually attempted from the Mutthorn hut, the ridge being reached close
to Pt 3306m, but it is also possible to start the climb at the Gamchiliiche.
From the Mutthorn hut cross the Kanderfirn and climb up the
glacier tongue below Pt 3306m. There are now two possibilities.
The easier option is to move R to a deep couloir and climb this
(delicate) to its vertical upper walls before traversing R to a gap
on the ridge SE of Pt 3306m. Cross this point to reach a section of
snow. The other option is less prone to stone fall. Climb the steep
slabby couloir starting directly below the summit of Pt 3306m and
slanting L. Exit onto the ridge at the snowy section.
To start at the Gamchilitcke reach this point by Routes 283 or
284. From the pass climb steep rocks on the R of the crest (III) then
the crest itself to reach snow. Traverse the snow horizontally
L wards (S flank) and continue in this line round a rib to reach the
glacier tongue below Pt 3306m.
Climb the ridge over or round several gendarmes to a vertical
step below the fore-summit. Traverse below the step on the S side to
a rib and climb this to the fore-summit. Fairly easy climbing now
leads to the summit. 6-8hr, about 2hr more for the Gamchilitcke start
AD-
The Blidemlisalp group has an extensive S wall but this is the only climb
on the whole wall that is worthwhile. There is some stone fall danger low
on the route.
From the Mutthorn hut cross the Kanderfirn and climb into the
snowy bay above Pt 2740.5m. From the top NW corner of the bay
climb rocks to the foot of the rib. On the rib itself avoid a vertical
step on the upper part by a couloir on the W side. 4-5hr
A useful pass between the Gspaltenhorn hut and the Mutthorn hut.
There is a precariously sited shelter for about eight people on the S
side.
F
From the Mutthorn hut cross the Kanderfirn to the Tschingelpass
and then contour the Tschingelfirn to the base ofa rocky couloir
below the col. Climb this (chains) to the col. 1hr
From the Gspaltenhorn hut follow the path S to the Gamchi glacier.
Climb the glacier to the col. 1.5 hr
G Foster with J Anderegg
and H Baumann,
Basically a rock peak with two principal features: the NE face, one
of the highest faces
in the
crest usually referred to as the Rote Zilhne ridge (Roti Zend on the
map). The rock is not perfect but is usually sound enough.
285 SOUTH-WEST
(ROTE ZAHNE) RIDGE
TD
96
15-16 Feb 1959
A splendid historical expedition with some good rock climbing. However
it is not a classic route. The climbing is of variable quality and there is a
lot of poor rock. It should only be attempted when the weather is settled
since escape from the ridge is dangerous. Once past the first tooth, it is
more difficult to return than to continue. The climb can be started at the
Gamchiliicke but it is more usual to reach the rid ge at Pt 3275m.
From the Gspaltenhorn huthead SE towards a tiny glacier then turn
S up snow slopes to cross the ridge descending W from Pt 3275m.
Get into a wide snowy couloir to the S of the ridge and climb this.
Leave the couloir in its upper part by easy rocks on the L to a gap.
Follow rocks to a second gap and then snow slopes to Pt 3275m.
Go along the ridge, then follow a narrow ledge for 10m on the
S side to the foot of the first tooth. Climb easy rocks for 20m then a
snowy couloir and a chimney before traversing R into another
couloir. Climb this to the crest and follow it to the top of the tooth
(III). 4-6hr
Descend a little couloir on the N side (poor rock) then make a
30m abseil. Climb down to a gap before two gendarmes and descend
the couloir below the gap (poor rock) to an exposed ledge. Cross the
ledge and make another abseil (15m) before easy rock leads to the
base of the second tooth. On the S face climb slabs then traverse R
to the second of three cracks. Climb a small overhang then the crack
to a belay (IV). Now climb a small couloir before slanting L to the S
summit of the tooth.
Move down into the gap before the N summit and keep
descending on the L to stony ledges. Follow these N to the first of a
number of small gaps. On the other side of the ridge make a 20m
abseil to the foot of the third tooth.
It is usual to avoid this tooth by making a 20m abseil on the L
side of the gap and then traversing round on ledges before climbing
a few m to a scree-covered terrace. From the terrace a steep crack
(poor rock) leads to the N side of the tooth. (It is possible to avoid
climbing the steep crack to the gap by following a rib on the L to the
crest.) The tooth can be climbed from the previous gap (on the W
side) by a narrow crack and chimney (IV). Descend by a steep and
narrow chimney on the N side (good holds). Either way the crest is
followed to the summit. 4-6hr, 8-12hr in all
From the Gamchilitcke climb the ridge easily to the first
tower. Turn this on the R by a narrow ledge followed by a couloir
back to the ridge. Snow leads toPt 3095m(Kamel). Climb this by a
chimney-crack (III) then follow the crest to Pt 3275m. 2hr
176-177