172-173
H Diibi and E
Muller with C Hari and F Ogi,
This is little more than a shoulder of the Bltiemlisalphorn but is
worth climbing by its NW ridge in combination with the SW ridge
of the Blitemlisalphorn. A description of the SW ridge is included
for the benefit of parties wishing to make the long traverse of the
entire ridge.
D F Kast
and
92 From the Friinden but follow Route 269 to the Oeschinenjoch.
Follow the ridge (shattered rock) and turn a group of gendarmes on
the L to reach a big step in the ridge. Reach a well marked gap by a
traverse L (IV-, few holds) then climb a chimney-crack (IV+,
exposed) to reach another gap. From the gap slant up R (easier)
back to the crest. A few more short steps (III+) are taken direct.
3-4hr from the pass
AD- First ascent party not known
From the Frtinden hut follow Route 269 onto the Undere
Oeschinen glacier. Slant up this L wards to the bottom of the W face
of the mountain at
about 2800m.
specific line but traces of track) which are delicate in places, to get
onto the ridge. Climb the ridge a little on its N side (steps of II) to
the summit. 4hr
R Liveing, L Stephen and J Stone with M Anderegg, F Ogi and
P Simond,
On older maps the 'e' is omitted from the name. The mountain is
the highest of three summits collectively known as the Blilemlisalp
(Wyssi Frau and Morgenhorn are the others). It has a particularly
attractive N face and its three ridges provide first class climbs. The
SW ridge combines well with the NW ridge of the Oeschinenhorn
whilst the ENE ridge is always climbed in conjunction with an
ascent of the Wyssi Frau and quite often the Morgenhorn.
AD-
92 The only sensible way ofclimbing this ridge is to include an ascent of the
Oeschinenhorn (usually by the NW ridge). The climb, although quite
short, has a remote feel to it.
From the Frtinden hut follow Route 271 to the summit of the
Oeschinenhorn. Descend the easy E ridge to the col at the foot of
the SW ridge. The ridge is mixed rock and snow. A gendarme in the
upper part is climbed by a chimney-couloir (III-). About 6hr from
the hut
AD First ascent party
93 The ordinary route, of no great difficulty, but care must be exercised on
the slabby limestone terrain on the lower part of the ridge. This can be
quite trying (ficy.
From the Blitemlisalp hut climb the E branch of the Blilemlisalp
glacier to reach the snow saddle on the S side of Ufen Stock.
Descend into the snow bowl below the N face and cross the bowl
before climbing a steep snow slope to the col at Pt 3179m. Climb the
rocky lower part of the ridge somewhat on the R side (iron belay
posts) and then the snow crest to the summit. 4-5hr
D
93 Winter:
F Herpich and R Meier,
This is a 500m high glaciated face with a few sierac bands but no rock
barriers. The average angle is only 450 but it steepens to 706 for some
short sections. It is a very pleasant climb in good snow conditions and just
about the quickest way to the summit. A good introduction to N face
climbing.
From the Blitemlisalp hut follow Route 273 to the snow bowl below
the face. The exact line varies with the condition of the sieracs.
Usually start on the L and climb up to the lowest sierac band and
cross it by a snow/ice ramp before moving R wards to directly below
the summit. Climb as direct as possible, turning s6racs as necessary.
The final section can be avoided by moving L onto the ENE ridge.
4-5hr
AD H Hoare with J von Bergen, Sept 1879
93 This is a magnificent narrow snow crest, quite delicate in places and
often corniced. It is started from the summit of the Wyssi Frau and an
ascentof the Morgenhorn is frequently included. In fact the traverse of
the three summits makes for one of the best climbs of this standard in the
From the summit of the Wyssi Frau follow the near horizontal ridge
SW then make a steep descent to the lowest point on the ridge. Now
keep more or less on the crest, over a number of steps, to the
summit. 2-4hr
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