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First traverse: Mrs. and M Dilbi with C and H Heri,
Of no great importance as a pass, it does make a good climb from
the Gasteretal and can be used to reach the Frunden hut from the
Mutthorn hut. Starting from Heimritz there are two possibilities,
one route is more direct and more difficult (AD).
PD Reach the Alpetli glacier from Heimritz in the Gasteretal as for
91 Route 203 or by descending from the Mutthorn but. Cross it, at a
height of about 2480m, in a wide arc to reach the rocks on its N side
near to Pt 2555.4m. Slant up L wards on easy ground then straight
up more steeply to reach the suspended glacier under the SE face of
the Friindenhorn, near to its NE corner. Traverse the glacier
L wards and, by easy rocks above, gain the SW ridge of the
Friindenhorn. Descend this to the pass after a short ascent over a
pronounced point. 5-6hr from Heimritz, about 3hr from the
Mutthorn hut. See also photo 92
The alternative approach from Heimritz follows the N side of
the Kander to Pt 1814m. Here a big couloir originating under the
Doldenhorn is followed on its E side until it is possible to slant up R
to Pt 2284m. Now cross a deep, narrow ravine by a horizontal
traverse R then, on the other side, climb up grassy slopes with a
detour R before regaining the E side of the ravine at about 2500m.
Keep on this side of the ravine and get onto a scree slope via a short
rock couloir. Move up to a short steep rib and climb it (III). Then, a
bit to the R, move up to a last step (III) and climb it L wards (III) to
the edge of the tiny glacier under the Friindenjoch. Climb the
glacier and a steep couloir to the pass. 6-8 hr
F From the Frundenhut climb the Frunden glacier, avoiding the
sieracs above the hut on the E side. 1 .5 hr
E Ober and F Corradi with P Rubi and F Ogi,
Although of only modest altitude it has some good climbs to offer, a
combination of any two of its ridges making an excellent traverse.
D H Lauper
and M Liniger,
92 An attractive ridge, rising in steps from the Friindenjoch, which for some
reason has been rather neglected. An excellent climb.
From the Frunden hut follow Route 266 to the Friindenjoch. Climb
the crest of the ridge E wards to a pronounced point where it turns
NE before a short descent. Still on the crest reach the first steep step.
A ledge system on the S side leads for 30m into a corner and
then for another 15m to an easy couloir. This is climbed up to the R
to regain the crest before the next step. Climb this direct (III+) then
continue on the crest to a gap below an overhang. Get over this on
the L (IV/IV+, strenuous) and then back to the crest by slanting up
R. The remaining short steps are all taken direct (III) to reach a
horizontal section (maybe snow) which leads to the summit.
4.5 -5.5 hr
PD First ascent party
92 The ordinary route and quite popular. The line of the route can be picked
out from the Frunden hut and should be examined beforehand by parties
intending to use it in descent after climbing one of the other routes. The
lower part is difficult to follow in mist.
From the Frunden hut climb SE up the Frunden glacier to a snowy
indent in the rocks at about 2600m. Climb this then a winding path
on the W flank (
vertical wall, before finally turning E to reach the snow lice crest of
the ridge. Follow this to the summit. 3hr
269
D J Berger and A Carter with K and O Ogi,
92 Mrs and J Gallet with A Miller and D Wandfluh,
Like the SW ridge this route has been sadly neglected despite it being a
very worthwhile climb.
From the Frunden hut descend a little to the E and cross the E
branch of the Friinden glacier to the rocks of the NW ridge. Climb a
step (possible verglas) to reach slabs which lead horizontally L
(fixed ropes and way marking). Follow these to get onto the moraine
of the Undere Oeschinen glacier. Climb the L side of the glacier
then its middle and finally a steep snow slope to the Oeschinenjoch
(3172m). 2hr
Now climb easily up the E ridge to the first steep step which is
climbed direct (III-, 20m abseilin descent). A narrow snow crest
leads to a second step. Start this on the R (IV) and then climb a
slabby couloir slanting L back to the crest (IV-, two abseils of 20m
in descent). A third step is climbed direct (III, 20m abseil in
descent) before the ridge eases to the summit. 3hr, 5hr in all
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