168-169
261 NORTH-WEST FLANK
(Doldenhorn 3643m)
PD First ascent party
91 The ordinary route but quite long and with a tedious approach fi-om the
Doldenhorn hut. It can be climbed from the Friinden hut but this
approach is infrequently used as the lower part ofthe Doldenhorn glacier
can be problematical.
From the Doldenhorn hut follow the track SE to Bim spitze Stei.
Contour round this on the W side and get onto the Doldenhorn
glacier at a small plateau S of Pt 2973m.
If coming from the Friinden hut follow Route 262 across the
Frfinden glacier. Get onto the Doldenhorn glacier and cross it to its
W side. Climb this side to reach the small glacier plateau S of
Pt 2973m.
Climb the glacier to the col between the Kl Doldenhorn and
the Doldenhorn. Large crevasses may be a problem especially late
in the season. A snowlice slope, which becomes a ridge, is followed
to the summit. 5-6hr
262 NORTH FACE (Doldenhorn 3643m)
D/D+ M Bachmann and
91 Frequently climbed especially early in the season, the face is 650m high
with a fairly constant angle (500-550). It is almost entirely snow/ice with
justa short rock band below the summit. This can be avoided.
From the Frtinden hut cross the W branch of the Frtinden glacier in
a big arc starting Swards and ending up on the W bank. At about
the level of the hut a rock ramp fitted with cables leads onto the long
rib descending from Pt 3480m. Climb up this or on its W flank to a
height of about 2800m then slant R up the Doldenhorn glacier to
the foot of the face. Take a direct line to the summit. At the rock
band either climb it (III, difficult if verglassed) or avoid it on the L
by exiting onto the E ridge. 5-8hr
263 GALLET RIDGE (Doldenhorn 3643m)
AD J Gallet
with J Kalbermatten and A
Miller,
91 The route climbs the N rib to Pt 3480m and the E ridge to the summit.
Much of the climbing is on snow, with a few rock steps, and there is a
splendid snow crest leading to the summit. There is some danger from
stone fall in the couloir at about 3300m (if there are other parties ahead.
From the Friinden hut follow Route 262 onto the N rib. Climb the
rib or its W flank, passing a rock step at 3034m on the R side, to a
gendarme about 100mbelow Pt 3480m. Either traverse R into a
narrow couloir and climb this (stone fall if not snow-filled) or climb
fixed ropes on the L, up the first rock step of the gendarme and get
into the upper part of the couloir (on the R) via a snowy terrace. By
either way reach a gap above the gendarme (fixed belay points on
this section).
From the gap a short but exposed ridge and a steep snow slope
lead to Pt 3480m. Follow the E ridge (often corniced) to the
summit. Care should be taken on the rocky barrier below the
summit if the snow is soft. 5-7hr
264
D+ E and O Bitrke,
91 G Siedhoff and H Trachsel, 19-20 Jan 1964
A slendid narrow ridge, mostly rock toPt3480m where it joins Route
263. It is quite safe from objective dangers and is best climbed when the
rock is free of snow (late season). There are some excellent pitches with
difficulties up to If although it is mostly III and IV. A classic route.
Start early to ensure good snow conditions on the upper part.
From the Friinden hut follow Route 266 to the pass. 1V2hr
From the pass climb a scree or snow slope to the top of the
first step on the ridge. Now on the crest or just on its R side, in a
series of short cracks, climb to a shoulder (III, IV). The ridge
steepens here (the Grey Nose). Climb up overlapping slabs to a
vertical wall which is climbed on its L edge (V, exposed). It is
possible, but not recommended, to avoid this step by a traverse of
about 15m on the N side into a widening crack. This leads to a
narrow ledge which allows the ridge to be rejoined above the
Grey Nose.
Keep on the ridge (IV) with just a few detours to the next
steep part (the Kanzel). This is 25m high. Climb the crest to
where it begins to overhang (piton) and make an exposed rising
traverse on the S face and then climb straight up to the top of the
step (good holds, IV+). The ridge is easier now and is followed to
Pt 3480m where Route 263 is joined. 6-8hr, about 8-10hr in all
168-169