166-167
Doldenhorn and Blikemlisalp Group
These mountains, of modest height, are situated on the N side of
the Gasteretal but are rarely climbed from this side. Their N flanks
are mainly snow and ice apart from the Gspaltenhorn, which is quite
rocky. Despite their lack of grandeur they offer some excellent
climbing, especially in the middle grades ofdifficulty. A traverse of
the group from the Gamchillicke (excluding the Gspaltenhorn) to
the Doldenhorn would make an excedingly fine three day outing.
Maps covering this section are: Wildstrubel (263) and
E von Fellenberg with A Roth, C Lauener, J Bischoff, K Blatter,
G Reicher and two porters,
A very fine mountain with a great variety of good routes on both
rock and snow. It is the W-most summit of the group and dominates
the view from Kandersteg.
260 SOUTH RIDGE
D
90 A rarely climbed route but no worse for that. The problem is the difficulty
of approach and the need to bivouac. The situations encountered both at
the bivouac and on the route are superb.
From Pt 1415m in the Gasteretal climb the scree slope on the W
side of Silleregrabe. At the top of the slope find traces of a track
which zigzags up the steeper hillside before crossing the torrent.
Continue up mixed grass and stone slopes, on the E side of the
torrent, to glacier polished rocks which in turn are followed to the
level of the tongue of the Sillere glacier. There are a number of
bivouac sites in the vicinity of Pt 2521m. 3hr
From the bivouac climb ESE over stone and/or snow covered
slopes until just short of the S ridge. Climb a rock step on the L to
gain an adjacent snow slope which is followed to the ridge. Move up
the ridge, turning the step below Pt 3354m on the W side on debris
strewn and overlapping slabs to reach a gap above this point where
the main difficulties commence.
Follow the ridge to a gendarme. Contour this at half-height on
the W side (shattered rock) and continue on the ridge to a big slabby
step at about 3500m. Descend gradually on the L side to the upper
edge of a snow slope and follow this round a rock pillar to a steep
chimney - couloir. Climb this (IV, some loose rock) and slant R near
the top to regain the crest. Excellent climbing on the crest, up a
series of steps,1eads to a near horizontal section. Keep mainly on
the crest, with just an occasional detour onto the W side, to the
summit. 8-9 hr from the bivouac
166-167