164-165
J Gallet with G and J Kalbermatten,
Situated at the end of the long SE ridge of the Bietschhorn, this is a
fine rocky peak most notable for its excellent S ridge, which is
amongst the best ridge climbs in the Oberland. The installation of a
bivouac hut has made this climb, unfortunately, very popular.
TD- R Aubert, A Collini, R Dittert, R Lambert, F Marullaz,
88 G de
Rham, C Thevenaz, A Tissibres and J Weigh,
The ridge is comprised of five towers separated by gaps of various depths.
The rock is perfect granite and the difficulties increase as height is
gained. Highly recommended. There are various alternatives to the route
described, especially on the last tower.
From the Stockhorn bivouac hut traverse W to the foot of the ridge.
Climb the first tower directly up the crest (300m, two steps of
IV). From the top descend the steep but easy W ridge then traverse
into the gap below the second tower. 2.5 hr
From the gap climb the ridge direct to the foot of a narrow
15mhigh crack. Climb this (IV, 2 pitons), moving L at an
overhang, and then a chimney. Traverse easily L from the chimney
into a couloir and climb this to where it steepens. Now traverse R to
the crest and follow this (exposed) to the top of the tower. Scramble
over a few blocks and make a 10m abseil into the next gap. 1hr
Keep on the crest to the top of the third tower then descend
steep but easy rock to the next gap. 30min
Climb the fourth tower by the crest until 8m from the top.
Now make a traverse on the W side (exposed) to an abseil point.
Make two abseils into the gap before the fifth tower. 45min
From the gap climb direct for 8m then slant up R for 5 m to a
good belay (V, 6 pitons). Continue in steep cracks for 30m on the R
side of the crest then get onto the crest to belay (III, IV). Follow the
crest for 10m (II) to where it merges into slabs and then traverse 5m
L, close to red and black stained rock, before climbing on the L side
of a crack to a belay (IV). Go straight up for another 4m then move
L wards on a steep and exposed rib to a belay by a projection (IV+,
piton). Less steep climbing for two pitches in a crack system1eads
to the bottom of a chimney (III, IV). Climb the chimney back to the
crest of the ridge (III+) and then climb just on the L side of this to
the top. 1 .5 hr
Follow the crest, passing some difficult gendarmes on the W
side, to a shallow gap, then keep on the crest to the summit (III,IV).
1hr, allow 8-10hr
259
AD- First ascent party
88 Descend the ridge, first on the N side then on the S, to a noticeable
broadening (II). Now descend a couloir on the S side, at the top of
which, on the R side, there is a big red slab. The couloir leads down
to a scree slope. Be careful not to descend a couloir starting higher
on the ridge. 1 .5 hr
164-165