162-163
L Stephen with J and A
A big mountain which, like the Eiger, fails to top the 4000m mark
by only a few m, and as a consequence, does not receive the
attention that it deserves. Its appearance from the S is mostly of
rock whilst from the N it looks mainly snow and ice. Viewed from
almost any angle it is a magnificent sight, standing proud of all the
adjacent peaks. It has three principal ridges, each of which is quite
narrow, the SE one in particular being quite Jagged. None of the
routes is easy and the rock is quite variable in quality but by no
means is it all bad, as is sometimes thought to be the case.
D+ G de Rahm
and A Tissibres,
The S face is comprised of a series of ribs and couloirs. The route
described climbs the face via the rib above Pt 3040m. The approaches to
the start, from the Bietschhorn hut via Shafbarg or by the Bietschtal, are
long and a bivouac near the foot of the rib is advisable. The rock is good.
From the foot of the rib climb up to a ramp on the W side (stone or
snow covered) and follow it to its W end. Climb easily up to the foot
of a massive couloir. 1.5 hr
Climb up R wards for one pitch to a hidden chimney which
leads R wards for three pitches (II, III) to the crest of the rib. Follow
the rib (III-) to where it becomes slabby and very steep and is
overhung by a red gendarme. Climb diagonally R wards to the foot
of a chimney-crack (three pitches, III, 2 pitons). Climb for 20m on
the R of the chimney and then in it (vertical and exposed, IV, 4
pitons) to a hollow below a projecting edge.
Cracks now lead to a gap behind the red gendarme (V-,
4 pitons) from where the crest is followed for two pitches to some
more gendarmes. Turn these on the R. Easy ground leads to a step
which is avoided on the R in a big couloir. Easy but delicate
climbing (loose rock) for about 5 pitches leads to a saddle. On the R
is a wet couloir which is climbed to the foot of the final vertical wall.
On the L climb a chimney to a gap (III, piton) and then follow the
undulating crest and a couloir on the R, leading to a small saddle
(one pitch, III). Another chimney and some loose blocks lead to the
summit (II). 8hr in all
AD- E von Fellenberg with P Egger, P Michel and A and J Siegen,
86
A fairly unpleasant climb, much of the rock being quite loose. It is,
however, the easiest route to the summit and is frequently climbed and
used in descent during a traverse of the peak.
From the Bietschhorn hut follow traces of path up the slopes of
Schafbarg to the Bietschioch (3165.7m). Cross the Bietsch glacier to
the foot of the W subsidiary ridge and climb this to the main ridge.
Climb up the ridge to the base of a grey tower. Traverse this
then descend a little way down the S flank and traverse R wards
under the crest before rejoining it via a rock rib on this side. Keep
mainly on the crest now, with just an occasional detour onto the S
flank (poor rock), until a longer traverse on snow leads to a section
of gendarmes. Traverse these on the crest to a narrow and exposed
section of the ridge which in turn leads to a red tower. Start this by
moving up 2-3m on the S side then climb directly up the W face on
good but small holds to the top. A narrow crest now leads to the N
summit. Reach the main summit over a number of gendarmes.
6-8 hr
AD From the Bietschhorn hut: first ascent party. From the
86 Baltschiederklause hut: D Freshfield and C Tucker with
F von Allmen and F Devouassoud, 10 July 1866
The N ridge can be approached from either the Bietschhorn hut or the
Baltschiederklause hut, the two routes joining at Pt 3706m. Both
approaches are frequently used but the latter is more reliable. The rock is
not perfect but is much better than on the WSW ridge. See also photo 87
From the Baltschiederklause hut follow Route 252 to the
Baltschiederjoch. Now climb gentle snow slopes SSW to the foot of
a rock rib. Climb this (loose rock) to the narrow snow crest,
commencing at Pt 3477m, and climb this to Pt 3706m. 4-4V2hr
From the Bietschhorn hut follow Route 254 to the Bietschjoch
then traverse NE on snow to reach the ridge between the Kl
Nesthorn and Pt 3706m. Cross a bergschrund then climb an ice
slope to the rock. Climb the ridge (broken rock on the S side) to join
the N ridge a little below Pt 3706m. 5.5 hr
Follow the narrow snow crest or a narrow but easy rock ledge
a few m below the crest on the W side to the N summit. Traverse
several gendarmes to the main summit. 2hr, about 6-8hr in all
256 EASTRIB (Bietschhorn 3934.1m)
AD+ C Dent and J Oakley Maund with J Jaun and A Maurer,
87
This is the rib running E from the summit and provides a very direct route
to the summit from the Baltschiederklause hut. Nowhere is the climbing
very difficult but it is fairly sustained on quite good rock and requires a
positive attitude.
From the Baltschiederklause hut follow Route 252 onto the Ussre
Baltschieder glacier and climb this NW to about 3100m before
turning S to reach the foot of the rib. Start on the N side and cross a
bergschrund, close to the rock, where it is easiest. Climb up to a
snowy saddle then traverse or turn (on the R) a wide gendarme. The
rib steepens and the climbing becomes more difficult. Keep on the
crest all the way to the summit. 7-8hr
It is possible to get onto the rib from the S side by entering the
glacier coombe on that side and climbing up to the ridge where it
becomes steep.
257 SOUTH-EAST
RIDGE (Bietschhorn 3934.1m)
TD- F Kast
and
87 Probably the best climb on the mountain and mostly on good rock. The
climb can be compared with the nearby S ridge of the Stock horn which is
similar in style but technically more difficult. However the commitment
required to climb the Bietschhorn is much greater. First, the approach to
the climb and the descent are much longer and much more equipment must
be carried (snow and ice gear). In addition, once above about half-height
it is impossible to abandon the climb. On the Stock horn it is rare to
encounter wet rock, but certainly high on the route, wet or even verglassed
rock is a possibility on the Bietschhorn. Most of the difficulties are III
and IV with the crux at V low down and on good rock.
From the Baltschiederklause hut follow Route 256 to the foot of the
rib and continue S into the glacier coombe. The ridge can be started
at various points but it is probably best to climb up the coombe to
directly below the first big step in the ridge. Climb up easy but
sloping rocks to join a ramp leading L to the ridge (possibly snow).
4hr
Climb the first big step direct by moving up steep walls
R wards into a crack which curves L and is topped by an overhang
(V-). All this is on compact rock with few possibilities for
protection. Less difficult climbing leads to a 25m high gendarme,
narrow at the bottom and overhanging. Climb it direct for 8m then
move L on a slab to a crack which is slightly overhanging but has
good holds. Climb the crack to the top of the gendarme. Now keep
to the exposed crest, turning a sharp gendarme on the L side, to the
end of the first part of the ridge at about 3780m.
Make a 10 m abseil on the S side to a gap at the top of a big
couloir on the S side. Follow the easier and less exposed crest for
several pitches (deteriorating rock) or turn the first three gendarmes
on the L side before returning to the crest via a couloir (slightly
easier). Avoid a group of forbidding looking gendarmes by a ramp
on the E side and rejoin the crest by an icy couloir and a difficult
wall (two pitches of IV). It is also possible to traverse the gendarmes
(IV and V) or turn them on the W side. Easy rock and snow slopes
lead to the summit. 4hr, about 8-10hr in all
162-163