160-161
Highest point: J Gallet
with J and G Kalbermatten,
The two peaks are known as the N Srdliches Jiigihorn (the highest)
and Sudliches Jagihorn, the latter appearing almost impregnable
when seen from the SW or NE on account of its steep rock walls.
Both peaks can be climbed quite easily from
the W. The
has some very good rock climbs on sound granite and the climbs
described are on this peak.
TD R Aubert,
A Collini, R Dittert and J Weigh,
85 A splendidly sustained climb on good and very steep rock, best done later
in the season when all the snow has melted, otherwise there is danger of
falling rocks.
From the Baltschiederklause hut follow the track under the wall
towards the Ussre Baltschieder glacier for about 25min to a big
black water streak (a waterfall when there is melting snow). L of
this is a chimney/crack over 100mhigh leading to some very steep
slabby walls. Climb on the L of the chimney on small rounded
holds, then get into the chimney and climb it for about 60m with
one quite awkward section to a ledge (more or less vertical to here).
Traverse L for 10m then straight up (piton). Climb a big slab by
slanting up L before a delicate stride L (piton) leads to easy grooves.
Climb these (broken rock) to a spacious shoulder at the foot of a
steep wall.
Traverse R and pass behind an enormous detached block,
then descend an easy ramp before climbing the wall above it to
reach a series of steep slabs that form the R wall of a wide couloir
(water course). Climb these slabs directly for several pitches, first
on the L then on the R, to reach the top of the couloir (stone fall)
where the R wall is overlooked by a big vertical wall. Climb fairly
easily for another 60 m then mount an overhang before a second
overhang blocks further progress.
Small holds and a small flake allow progress up a slab on the R
wall (8m, piton) to beneath an overhang. Climb this directly (2
pitons, 6triers) to reach a terrace. Here there is a 12mhigh smooth
wall with an overhanging chimney on each side. Climb the one on
the R, which starts 3-4 m above the terrace (use aid to get into it), by
Jamming (hard). A flake offers respite and a belay.
A chimney (possibly icy) is next climbed (easier) to where it
can be left on the R. Easier, but still vertical, climbing follows on
rough rock with good holds. Eventually move R to a gap at a small
shoulder on the face from where the climbing becomes very easy.
Keep moving up broken rock and short walls L wards to reach the
SE ridge. Follow this to the summit. 8hr
249 WEST FLANK
AND NORTH RIDGE
PD A, J and P
From the Baltschiederklause hut follow Route 246 onto and up the
Ussre Baltschieder glacier and reach a couloirin the W flank close to
the
upper edge of a slabby section then slant R and climb on easier
angled slopes over large blocks to the N ridge. Follow this, level at
first, easily to the summit. 3hr
D- D Chervet
and
85 A very enjovable climb on perfect rock.
From the Baltschiederklause hut scramble up directly behind the
hut to where the rock steepens. Climb N wards (no specific line, III
and IV) to reach easy ground. Follow this round onto the SW flank,
all the time rising steadily, to where a broad gully leads to the SE
ridge. Follow the crest, traversing two yellow gendarmes (IV--)
which can be turned on their W side. A 14m high smooth diedre in
another tower is climbed on the R (IV, piton) or avoid the tower on
the E side. This is followed by a 25m high step. Start on the crest
then traverse R (IV) to a dibdre which is climbed to regain the crest.
Continue to a yellow wall flicing W which is partly overhanging.
Climb this direct (IV+). The next gendarme is climbed direct or
turned by a traverse on its E wall (few holds) into a steep 15m high
couloir. Climb this, the difficulties then ease to the summit. 4-5hr
First recorded crossing: D Freshfield and C Tucker with
F Devouassoud,
The pass gives access to the Baltschiederklause hut from the
Bietschhorn hut or the reverse, thus connecting the Lotschental
with the Baltschiedertal. Unfortunately the climbing on the N side
is rather unpleasant.
PD From the Bietschhorn hut climb a little before traversing NE to
86 cross the ridge descending from Schafbarg. Descend onto the Nest
glacier and cross its tongue to reach the col below Pt 2581.7m. Keep
traversing and cross the Birch glacier to the foot of a steep couloir
(usually snow filled). Climb it, following its R bank. From the top
of the couloir traverse horizontally SE to the pass. 3.5 hr
F
85 From the Baltschiederklause hut follow a track NW as for Route
246 and get onto the Ussre Baltschieder glacier on the R side of a
sierac zone. Continue NW to the pass. 2hr
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