158-159
PD+ G Yeld
with F and
85 An enjoyable mixed route with good rock and a nice culminating snow
crest. See also photo 84
From the Baltschiederklause hut follow Route 237 onto the Innre
Baltschieder glacier. Head forPt 3350m and climb into the glacier
coombe by passing just E of the foot of this point. Go up the coombe
to a snow saddle close to Pt 3624m. It is also possible to get onto the
ridge a little further R by means of a small rock couloir. Another
alternative is to climb steep rocks and an icy gully, just on the E side
of a yellow rock tooth close to the lowest gap in the ridge.
Once on the ridge keep on its crest to the summit. 6-7 hr
TD W von Allmen
and
84 The face is 700m high and in good conditions provides an excellent
climb. It makes a good training route for longer N face climbs. There are
rock difficulties ofup to IV in both rock zones and the ice is 500-55.
Probably best climbed from a bivouac at the foot of the face.
In 1977L Griffin and P Bartlett climbed an independent line to
The L of the von All men/FeuzRoute(see photo).They approached the
face by scrambling up the ridge on the W side of the Distlig glacier and
then climbed the glacier itself towards the top. The final rock wall has
various possible lines, each giving two or three pitches of quite difficult
mixed climbing.
From Fafleralp cross the bridge then climb SE via Gletscherweng to
reach Pt 2336.1m. Continue up rubble slopes to a saddle E of
Pt 2783mbefore following the Loibinbach glacier to the col
between the mountain and the Gletscherspitza. 3hr
Climb a short steep snow slope to the rock zone. Climb this, at
first straight up then slanting L (III, IV) to reach the central ice
slope. Climb this direct to the final rock barrier which is
surmounted (IV) to reach the summit. 5-6hr for the face
PD- First ascent party
85 The easiest route on the mountain and the ordinary route from the
Oberaletsch hut. Entirely on snow and ice.
From the Oberaletsch hut follow Route 237 to above the sieracs on
the Beich glacier then climb the snow slopes to join the SE ridge.
Climb this to the SE summit and then continue NW to a gap before
a narrow snow crest leads to the NW rock summit. 5hr
E Haberliwith A and
J Weissenfluh,
The mountain has little to distinguish it but it is frequently climbed,
in combination with the Breithorn, from the Baltschiederklause
hut. The NW face is thought to be comparable with the L Btschental
Breithorn N face.
PD P Geny with J Kalbermatten, Aug 1907
From the Baltschiederklause hut follow a path, after a little
scrambling, under the walls of the Jilgihorn NW to the Ussre
Baltschieder glacier. Climb this, curving round to reach a col at the
foot of the S ridge and just N of three towers on the N ridge of the
Jiigihorn. Pleasant climbing up the ridge (II, III) leads to the
summit. 3.5 hr
247 NORTH-EAST
RIDGE IN DESCENT
AD H Bullock, G
There is some delicate and exposed climbing.
From the summit go down the ridge turning the first big gendarme
on the N side. Continue along the jagged ridge to another gendarme
which is also turned on the N side on a short icy rib. As Pt 3624 m is
approached more short traverses are made on the N side. 4hr
158-159